A slip yoke has a splined shaft the drive shaft slides over. This allows the drive shaft to flex on rough terrain. A flange yoke has a flat plate on the transfer case and the end of the drive shaft and they bolt together.
yoke , you must mean the rear prop shaft including U-Joint yokes. easy, drain transfer case (bottom plug) unbolt u-joint flange at rear axle. prop shaft just slides out of transfer case. 4 bolts and and 1 plug.
How do i change the chain out of my 1998 mercury mountaineer transfer case
Mark driveshaft yoke and splined area from transfer case - so that it will be installed in the same position to maintain factory balance Remove and discard small "U" bolts from yoke (Replace with new at installation) Pry driveshaft out of yoke and forward onto splines at transfer case Drop driveshaft and pull off splines
If it's electronic, you have a Borg-Warner 1354, and that specific one was used on the 1998 - 2000 Rangers. It differs from earlier models by using a front cup yoke instead of a fixed yoke. The same transfer case was used on the 1998 - 2000 Explorer, as well.
The slip yoke on the Ford Bronco is located on the rear axle rather than on the transfer case. This is the portion of the axle that allows it to flex.
Change and flush the transfer case fluid immediately.
Remove 2 small "U" type clamps securing drive shaft into differntial yoke Make driveshaft position in relation sdto yoke and transfer case (to maintain factory balance) Driveshaft should either fall out or can be pried out of yoke and slid into transfer case enough to drop Remove drive shaft Old "U" joints can be pounded out of housing, but I find it easier to bring to auto part/machine shop and let them press new join into shaft Re-Install It's advisable to use new "U" clamps
I dont have a diagram however removing the transfer case is a fairly easy process, if you are referring to the driveshaft yokes ford uses a couple different setups, usually at the rear of the transfer case going to the rearend is a slip yoke, you simply unbolt the u-joint at the rear end and slide it first forward to clear the pinion yoke and then back to slide it out of the transfer case, or a bolt yoke where you will 4 bolts or nuts to remove at both ends of the driveshaft. same thing goes for the front driveshaft, then there will be 8 bolts between the transfer case and the transmission some of them are kinda tough to access, ratchet wrenches are a lifesaver here, then remove the speedo sensor and the shift linkage which should have a long flat bar with a rubber connection in it you can pry apart with a small pry bar and some wd40. then a simple twist and pull backward and it will come loose. it will be heavy but is usually managable without a tranny jack.
Use a crayon or piece of chalk and draw a line on the rear yoke in the differential and on the driveshaft. Do this on the front end of the driveshaft/trany/transfercase also. This is so the driveshaft goes back into the same position you took it from (otherwise you may get a vibration). Undo the 4 bolts on the rear axel yoke. Pry out universal from the yoke. Pull the driveshaft out of the back of the trany/transfer case. You may loose fluid from the trany/transfer case rear seal so check it when you reinstall it
Click on the link to the right for instructions.
With a lot of cussing and a 2 jaw puller helps, you may need to heat up the output shaft. but try to pull it with out the heat.