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Replace the brake pads.
it is usually against the firewall right in-front of a big black round thing called a brake booster it is a container that is clear and the level will be indicated on it
Check Hanbrake, Brake fluid level and Clutch fluid level. It could be any of the three.
Depending on the exact model, you may have a few things to remove in front of it. When front is clear then remove the brake master cylinder then the booster. A lot of awkward wrench work can be made easier if you have a good socket set with universal joints.
Don't ignore the light. It's telling you to have the brakes inspected.
The brake warning light on a 2005 BMW 325i can be reset by connecting an OBD II code reader. It can view and clear error codes detected by the computer.
If you're just replacing the booster, you don't need to un-do the brake lines to the master cylinder. You need to un-bolt the master cylinder from the brake booster (2 nuts) and pull the master cylinder forward . Be very careful not to crimp the metal brake lines...just enough to clear the threaded studs. Remove the vacuum line from the booster. I suggest you replace this vacuum line while you have the chance. The tubing on these lines become very brittle because of the engine's heat...and with a new booster, the system will be more efficient and probably stress out the existing line. Besides, you'll probably break it anyway because they are so brittle. Here comes the fun part. If you don't have at least a 12" 3/8" drive extention, I suggest you get one. I believe the nuts you'll be removing are 13mm. There are 4 of them. You'll need to remove the bottom dash cover underneath the steering wheel to have access underneath the dash panel. Follow the steering wheel shaft to the fire wall. Directly above that you'll see where the brake pedal attaches to the brake booster. Disconnect the pedal from the booster. Then remove the 4 13mm nuts that attach to the brake booster. Remove the booster...clean off the area before putting it back together....I believe there's a o-ring seal that should be replaced too. Be careful when taking the booster off...you don't want to snag one of those metal brake lines. Slide the new booster back into the holes and reverse the procedure. If you have more than 50,000 miles on the brake fluid, you should replace it. That helps maintain the integrity of the brake seals...this stuff is like any other oil and breaks down. The new booster will be putting more pressure on your braking system. Good luck.
Mounted on the upper firewall, driver's side, in front of the brake booster. It will have a reservoir on top that is almost clear plastic that you can see the fluid level through. The Master Cylinder is located right under that reservoir.
The clutch fluid reservoir is on the firewall, in front of the driver, immediately to the right of the brake booster. The fluid should be clear, and at the appropriate level as indicated on the side of the reservoir.
Only if the wheel will clear the brake caliper.Only if the wheel will clear the brake caliper.
open the hood look at the drivers side it is bolted to the break booster looks like a pound cake pan and the plastic clear bottle with the black cap is you resovoier
Diaster warning, attack warning, and all clear.