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How do you get bolt out of alternator on 2004 kia optima it is loose but wont clear some kind of bracket so I can remove to pull alternator?
Wiki User
∙ 14y ago
I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but have encountered the same problem with Ford and GM vehicles over many years.
When a bolt is too long to remove due to something else "blocking" it, it is sometimes necessary to remove the "offending" item, in your specific case the bracket.
For example, I once had a '79 Ford LTD that required the removal of the radiator fan shroud, AND the radiator to get the blasted 9 1/2 inch long alternator mounting/pivot bolt out.
Try different ways of moving the alternator and bolt around to allow removal, and if that's impossible, then you'll have to remove the offending bracket and whatever else is mounted on it.
Wiki User
∙ 14y ago
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How do you change the back 3 spark plugs in a 1991 Chevy Lumina V6?
HELLO. AT FIRST GLANCE I WAS GOING TO TAKE OFF THE ALTERNATOR BUT THERE IS A BRACKET RIGHT BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR FOR THE MAP SENSOR. REMOVE THE TWO 13MM. NUTS THAT HOLDS THE BRACKET IN PLACE. PULL THE BRACKET GENTLY TOWARDS THE FIREWALL TO CLEAR THE BRACKET FROM THE BOLT STUDS. LIFT THE BRACKET UP REMOVE MAP SENSOR PLUG AND VACUUM LINE. PULL BRACKET OUT OF THE WAY GENTLY TO MAKE SURE NOTHING ELSE IS CAUGHT ON THE BRACKET. ONCE THE BRACKET IS PULLED OUT OF THE WAY YOU CAN ACCESS THE 3 SPARK PLUGS IN THE BACK TOWARDS THE FIRE WALL. IT TAKES ME LONGER TO EXPLAIN THAN IT DOES TO DO IT. IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN GOOD LUCKAnswerI just tuned up my father-in laws mini van and it had a sideways mouted v-6. I had to jack it up pretty high in the front and go in from the bottom. Wasnt as bad as it sounds. AnswerTilting the engine forward is a pain in the butt and risks breaking/stressing lines/connections. Still a pain, but easier, is removing the alternator. Disconnect the battery. Remove serpentine belt from the alternator by slacking back the tension pulley. Remove the front bolt on the alternator, tilt the alternator back to access the rear bolt. Once alternator is removed, access to the plugs is still tight, but you can reach behind the engine with the necessary tools (you will need extensions for your ratchet wrench) to get to the plugs. Just finished this job about 10 minutes ago. No wonder the car was missing on my 1990. Found gaps to be .055 - .075. For my year and model (3.1 sedan) gaps should be .035 AnswerI just did it and all I had to do was remove the alternator to get to the spark plugs. I went in from under to change some but also found you can do it from the top as well and without tilting the engine.Just have alot of patients and take your time.
How do you change the alternator for a 1992 Honda Civic?
Here are the relatively easy steps I took. The alternator is difficult to access, and cannot be removed without removing something--preferrably the easiest thing. # Turn the steering all the way to the left (makes things easier) # Disconnect the battery ground wire. # Jack up the car and remove the front driver's side wheel. # Remove the 2 alternator mounting bolts. Access to top bolt from top, bottom bolt from underneath. # From top or underneath (both are difficult access), rotate alternator so you can remove all the wiring (one plug, one wire wired to the post, and one retaining clamp on the back). # From underneath, move alternator back behind the engine to clear it from the alternator mounting bracket. # From underneath, remove alternator mounting bracket. Two 14 mm bolts (need a socket for one of them). # From side, in wheel well, unscrew back-most plastic screw holding front inside wheel-well splash guard on. # Pull Alternator out just behind the splash guard, flexing it out as you go. # Put the new alternator back in through the same hole. # Set the alternator aside and put the alternator mounting bracket on--tighten it up because you won't be able to access one of the bolts once you put the alternator on. Notes: You might want to make sure that the new alternator will fit in the mounting bracket while both new alternator and bracket are off the car. Sometimes the bolt sleeve in the bracket can be too tight and need a little tap to move it out. You will probably lose the wheel well nut behind the plastic screw retaining the wheel well splash guard; mine fell into the body frame, never to be seen again. To fasten it back, I just used a pinched piece of coat-hanger wire to hook the wheel well back in place and then put some silicone on the hole so that water didn't go into the hole.
You are replacing the alternator on a 04 passat tdi the lower bolt is to long to clear the fan what is the easies way to remove the alternator?
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How do you remove valve covers on 1994 1500 suburban?
On the right side you will remove the 4 bolts holding down the valve cover. Then pop it loose from the head. You will want to lift out the rear first to clear the alternator, this will be tricky and takes some paitance. Then on the left side remove the 4 bolts also and pop loose from head. This will also be tricky but raise it up enough to clear the valves then you will have to play with it a little depending on wether or not it has a/c on the engine as the lines will cause big problems to get around.you may have to remove the bracket at the rear to get it out.
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Its a bit of a job, but in order to do it correctly, you need to remove the alternator and water pump and then you will have clear working area to remove and install the A/C compressor.
What size wrench or socket do you use to remove the alternator from a 1991 integra?
11 mm wrench socket. Ur gonna need to take out the left axle and exhaust pipe to clear for the alternator to come out thru the bottom.
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This is a very tricky job, unless you're a confident mechanic (in which case it'd be clear how to do it) I wouldn't try. It's a pig of a job.
How do you install starter on 1990 feativa?
First remove the battery from the vehicle. then remove the two 10mm bolts on the top side of the battery tray and the one on the bottom side and remove it. remove the positive wires from the starter. the nut is a 12mm. there are two 12mm bolts that hold the starter bracket to the top of the transmission. remove them. if it is a manual trnsmission, remove the two 12mm nuts hold the clutch cable in place. this is so the bracket on the starter will clear the cable with ease. then remove the two 14mm bolts holding the starter in place.
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How do you install an alternator in a 1989 Honda Civic DX?
NOTE THESE ARE GREAT INSTRUCTIONS WITH A COUPLE OF IMPROVEMENTS: 1) VERY IMPORTANT TO DISCONNECT HOT LEAD ON CAR BATTERY BEFORE YOU BEGIN--I CAUSED A SHOWER OF SPARKS WHEN I ACCIDENTALLY GROUNDED OUT THE ALT WHEN TRYING TO LOOSEN THE BOLTS. 2) GET YOURSELF A MINI-RACHETT...OPEN END WRENCHES ARE TOO BIG TO GET INTO SOME OF THE TIGHT PLACES. 3) MOST IMPORTANTLY: YOU MUST JACK UP THE CAR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WHEN TRYING TO REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT OTHERWISE THERE IS NO WAY YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET IT OUT....VERY FRUSTRATING UNTIL YOU FIGURE THIS OUT...JACKING THE CAR UP DROPS THE AXLE a CRITICAL 2-3 INCHES. YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE AXLE IF YOU DO THIS. I just finished installing a new alternator in my 1989 Honda Civic DX hatchback. The alternator was making a horrible shrieking/squealing noise. I used a piece of garden hose as a stethoscope to localize the sound. It was definitely coming from the alternator. Once I got the alternator off it was clear that something on the rotor had broken and was hitting something inside the alternator as it turned, scraping each time it hit. If something scrapes fast enough it sounds like a horribly loud squeal. The classic symptom of bearings failing is described as a growling. Mine was a squeal not a growl. Remove the alternator: Put the car up on ramps if possible to allow more room under the car. Unplug the wire bundle from the back of the alternator. Remove the 7 mm nut holding the wire to the top of the alternator. Loosen the nut on the pivot bolt at the bottom of the alternator (easier to access from under the car). Loosen the bolt at the top of the alternator. Rotate the alternator toward the front of the car and remove the belt from the alternator pulley. If the belt is worn consider replacing it. Completely remove the top bolt holding the alternator. If you want more room to work you can remove the upper mounting bracket from the engine (one bolt) that holds the top bolt of the alternator. Chock the rear wheels, engage the parking brake, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. This moves the axle toward the rear of the car to give you more room to get the alternator out. Remove the plastic cowling that separates the left front wheel well from the engine compartment. You may want to take the left front tire off to get better access but I didn't find it necessary. Remove the nut from the bottom pivot bolt on the alternator and remove the pivot bolt. It's a tight fit, you might have to gently drive the pivot bolt out. The alternator is now disconnected. Push it up and toward the right side of the car to temporarily get it out of your way. Remove the lower pivot bolt bracket from the car's frame (two bolts). The alternator can now be worked toward the wheel through the open area in the wheel well and removed. In my case the new alternator came with a pulley installed. Do not remove the pulley from the old alternator. It's difficult, the nut is very tight, it's installed with both a lock washer and locking compound, and is not necessary unless your new alternator comes without a pulley. My new alternator warned that if I ever removed the pulley from the new alternator it would void the lifetime warranty on the alternator. Just be sure your new alternator has a pulley with the same diameter and rib arrangement as the old one. Both my old and new alternator were rated at 60 amps. Install the alternator: Reverse the process above. Work the alternator past the wheel. Install the lower pivot bolt bracket. Connect the wiring to the alternator (it's easier to connect before bolting the alternator into place). Insert the pivot bolt through the pivot bolt bracket and the alternator. It's a tight fit, you may have to gently tap it to get it to go all the way through. Hand-tighten the nut on the pivot bolt. Install the upper mounting bracket if you removed it. Put the belt over the pulley. Install the top alternator bolt and hand tighten the nut. Slide a crowbar between the engine block and the alternator housing. Gently pry the alternator away from the engine to tighten the belt. Tighten the upper nut on the alternator. The belt should be tight enough to give just slightly when pushed. Officially, "1/2 inch deflection when the belt is pushed with 20 lb pressure at the mid-point between the pulleys." Too tight will cause undue wear on the bearings. Too loose will cause slippage, squealing, and undue wear on the belt. Tighten the nut on the pivot bolt. Reinstall the plastic cowling between the tire and the engine compartment. Check to be sure all bolts are tight. After driving for a little while the belt may need to be re-tightened.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1995 Isuzu Rodeo 2wd v6?
Okay, here's the deal.......Remanufactured alternatrs are said to be a real waste of time and money. They have various different problems. Unless you can come by an OEM alternator, remove your old one, get it rebuilt at a shop that will do it, and go from there. First, you gotta get under the car. Under the alternator is a horizontally-pointing bolt. You use that to adjust tension on the alternator belt, so loosen it up to the point where you can slide the belt off of the pulley. Then, you have to undo that little tensioner slide assembly so that it comes apart-check for the bolts attaching this assembly to the alternator and remove them. Finally, the pivot bolt on thetop of the alternator-remove it and the alternator is ready to come off. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE PRIOR TO ALL OF THIS!!!!!!! also disconnect the leads to the alternator and it's free and clear. Take it to a shop, get it rebuilt, and go from there!
