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Starters and Ignition Systems
Chevy Suburban
Isuzu Rodeo

How do you get the starter out of a 1997 Rodeo?

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2011-09-13 04:05:21
2011-09-13 04:05:21
Replacing a 1997 Rodeo starter"The starter on our 1997 rodeo was replaced a few months ago and our mechanic (also a family friend) had to lift the entire engine to replace the starter. He wasn't thrilled but it only cost us $300 to have the work done - that included the price of the starter."

$300 is probably not too bad of a price.

I recently had to replace the starter on my 1998 Isuzu Rodeo as it was getting the common "click click" when I turned the key. I picked up a remanufactured starter for $200 with a $50 refund for returning the old one. These are my steps for replacing my starter, but I assume close years will be similar.

Before starting, I recommend you leave the vehicle on a hard surface rather than putting it on a lift or jacking the entire vehicle up. It will cause less complications in later steps.

1. Remove the front left tire and the mudflap behind the tire. This will allow you to reach some of the starter wires and rotate it a bit easier.

2. Disconnect all the starter wires through the wheel-well that you cleared, and remove the two bolts from the starter from below. You may find it easier to gain access to the starter by removing a few heat shields by the exhaust manifold. The starter should now be free. You can rotate it and pull on it all you want, but it's impossible for it to come out.

3. Place a jack underneath the corner of the oil pan and start cracking it up. The goal is to lift the engine enough to allow you enough room for the starter to come out. Alternatively, you could try removing the three bolts from the exhaust manifold to allow yourself enough room, but I was unable to get mine to budge. It was a tight fit to get mine in and out, but I only had to raise the engine 1/2" to 3/4". I also had to push back on the exhaust slightly.

4. The starter should pull out with the sprocket facing downward, and the solenoid on the top of the unit, and towards the driver's door. As you can see, it's a tight fit.

5. Install the new one by reversing the steps, and good luck. It only took a friend and myself about 6 hours to figure these four steps out. Hopefully it'll save you some time.

**

When the contacts on my son's 97 wore out (2 1/2years ago) here's what I did-not that it's the right way.

1. Bought new contacts online for about $5 (I think it was at sherco?).

2. Diconnected the wires and mounting bolts. Dissassembled the solenoid from the starter while the unit was still in the car.

4. Removed the solenoid and the starter as separate pieces. I didn't disconnecting the manifold. I may have removed the shield- can't remember. I didn't do anything with the motor mounts or jacking up the engine.

6. Replaced the contacts in the starter on the bench and tested the unit. You might be able to find a different thread to lead you through this somewhere

7. Put the starter and the solenoid back into the car seperately. Assembled them together in place and then installed the mounting screws and the wires. I remember it being a little tricky to keep all the parts together while I was putting them back in - a little temporary tape might help.

This was a dirty job and took 4 or 5 hours but most of the time was spent figuring out this might work and trying it. The starter rebuild was easy in my case since it only needed the contacts. It has been working great every since -with only the $5 worth of parts.

I find those answers funny.....Remove the exhaust pipe from the truck Then you have loads of room. Removed the engine HAHAHA...Cut the exhaust bolts at the bottom where they join to the Y-pipe Remove the 3 bolts at the manifold and there you are

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