How do you install rear drum brakes on a Chevy 3500 truck?

Answer 1

First jack up one wheel, remove wheel or wheel's be sure truck can't roll forward or backwards, use a 3/4" socket to remove axle bolts ,axle should be loose if not, hit in center of axle with hammer then remove, put pan under the hub (axle housing ) catch any grease not to reuse to keep the work area clean. You will need a tool that looks like a big socket with teeth sticking out on it these teeth line up with slots on the lock nut most parts stores have them$ 20.00 item, use a screw driver or thin chisel to bend back the metal that is bent around the lock nut ,socket will not go in if you don't. remove outer lock nut ,then with needle nose pliers remove the metal piece that has the little ears on it remember it will be reused and it goes between the two locking nuts that bends over the out side nut to lock it in place. remove inner locking nut using the big socket again, remove hub if it won't slide off use a pry bar between the springs and lip on the hub, if that does not work using a brake spoon back off brakes as far as you can, remove hub. this is a tip on how to remember how the brakes shoes will go back on, take a picture with a digital camera keep it for reference, with a needle nose pliers push in on a washer looking thing that has a spring under it, there will be one on each side one will be holding on the self adjuster's spring sets in a little cup, then remove the one on the other lining, there will be two springs at the upper part of the linings, notice the difference in length's short one goes over a pin or post that is above the wheel cylinder ,it hooks on to a steel clip that goes back to the self adjuster, the other one is longer and made to go over the emergency brake arm, there is a little C clip on the top end of the emergency brake arm, the brake arm will be on the rear lining's, remove the C clip it and save you will need to reuse it. be sure to get a new grease seal pay attention which way it goes ,lift off the complete brake linings together be sure not to lose the little pins that are sticking out of the wheel cylinder, the ones that push on the linings, there is a flat piece of steel that goes from the front shoe to the back shoe/emergency brake arm pay attention to where the little spring goes, if you are going to rebuild the wheel cylinders, don't you can buy a complete cylinder, new from Napa for$ 8.00 the kit cost more than that, its even U.S. made, the best way to remove the cylinder, is to take out the four bolts that hold on the backing plate ,that's the plate that is bolted to the axle housing,3/4 socket again, there should be enough slack in the brake line to pull the backing plate for ward a couple of inches to get a 3/8 6point socket on to the two bolts that hold the cyl to the plate, use a 3/8 flare wrench on the brake line or a vice grip, be sure the nut is turning free from the line-put the new cylinder on and re-hook the line this will keep fluid from running all over,lay out the complete brake set on the floor, it should be held together by the spring on the adjuster, take the new shoes out of the box and match the linnings up there is a front and back ,take the old set and push in on the top of the two linnings toward each other this will let you remove the spring at the bottom,the adjuster spring,remove the spring and adjuster make sure adjuster is free you should be able to screw it in or out by hand easy,when you put in place on the new shoes be sure the spring goes the right way,the spring has a long end and a short hook you do not want the spring to be on top of the adjuster part,remember the is a self adjuster arm that goes there,push your backing plat back on be careful to watch the brake line,put one bolt in just to hold it firm,put in the pins into the wheel cylinder,set new kit in place ,start the emergency brake arm in to its hole ,put on the cC clip,the steel arm with the spring that goes from front linning to the back linning have it in place,remember how the spring went,with a needle nose pliers ,vice grip type is the best clamp on to the little washer that has a little spring under it,there is a long nail looking thing that goes through the backing plate through the brake shoe that will go through a hole in the self adjuster arm that should be on the back linning,it will have a cup that is the base for the spring that the washer goes over ,hold the nail in place by putting your hand on the back of the plate,now take the spring and washer and vice gripe ,needle nose and clamp on the washer push down hard and line up the nail so the washer can go over it ,then turn it ,it will lock in place,do the same on the front shoe,now the clip that goes from the pin by the wheel cyl to the self adjuster put that on force it over the pin,back up a little there is a flat piece of steel that goes over the pin or post above the wheel cyl put that on then the clip,now hook the shorth end of the spring into the new linning should be rear,with a tool put the spring on over the pin or post above the wheel cyl,be sure you have the pins in place on the shoes that operate from the wheel cyl,and the plate that goes to the front linning to the back for emerengcy brake,put on the the long spring front shoe,if there are no groves cut into the hub ,go a head and remove the grease seal ,long punch put it through the front to the back there is a place to get it up against the seal ,knock out the seal,check out the bearing if it looks ok put it hub ,then tap in seal, take a look at the brakes ,take a look at your pictures,if every thing looks ok,put in the three remaining bolts for the backing plate and tighten up that part is finished ,slide on the hub,should be a solid washer that goes over the axle that covers the bearing,then the nut with the notches in it screw it down until you have taken any play out of the wheel ,keep spinning the hub as you thighten,next the spacer with the ears on it,then the last lock washer,tighten down,don't bend over the ears yet,put the wheels on tighten them down, spin the wheels,they have to be free no drag,with a hand on the top of wheel and a hand on the bottom see if you can rock the wheel back and forth if so remove outer bearing and spacer retighten the enter bearing,until no rock and it is still free,replace the spacer then the outer locknut ,tighten it down bend down tabs,put in axle tighten down the bolts,adjust the brakes,use a brake spoon spin wheel ,adjust wheel until it locks,cant move it by hand ,back off ajuster 10 clicks,repeat this on the other side,to bleed I have never tried this ,this way but it is suggested to fill MMaster cylinder, then open the bleeders just a little enough to let fluid out ,keep eye on M.C> don't let it go emty,don't do this until you have done the brakes on both sides,and the truck is back on level ground---taking the picture could be very important,use it as your gide ,I have a 73-and a 79 Chevy yours might be different ,do one at a time so if you have go look at the other side.