I just spent a whole day on this and only after i got the dang thing opened did i realize there was an easier way. Whether or not you will be able to utilize this easier way depend on whether or not you still have access to the cable that should be attached to the regular release lever. In mine the cable had snapped off the lever, so i thought that pulling on it with a vise grip should accomplish the same task but or some reason it did not, so try that first. If that doesn't work, i hope you have been doing your yoga b/c its really going to help you with the next step. Withe the top fully up, remove the black liner behind the back seats (snaps are located at the base of the roof) then move the insulation and pull the cardboard cover up. This should reveal the back of the trunk as well as your convertible top motor and your spare tire. Remove the spare tire by reaching under it and unscrewing the retaining nut. Once the spare is out now its time to get flexible. crawl int o the trunk head first, depending on your height and size you should be able to get in about to your hips. You should bring a small flashlight so that you can locate the latch assembly and the inside of the trunk lid. Now, earlier if you were able to get a wrench on the cable but it wasn't working you might have an easy fix. On the drivers side of the latch assembly (your right from this perspective) fell for a small metal lever sticking out from the plastic cover, this is the lockout switch, it disables the regular trunk release in case you leave the top down but still want he trunk secure. If you can flick it down it means it was engaged and now the cable should work. If it doesn't work at first try messing with it a bit until it does. If this doe not work you have to get a bit more intense. With a 13 mm socket wrench remove the bolts of the upper part of the latch assembly. You may also need to remove the plastic cover if you cant get access to the bolts (it is secured with 2 Phillips screws. This is what i did after the bolts are out the lid should open with minimal force. Remove the latch assembly from the lower cleat by turning the cam that the key would normally turn then bolt the assembly back onto the trunk lid and try to figure out why the heck it didn't work in the first place. I had to tie a cable to the aforementioned cam which would usually be controlled by the key and run it up over the back seat so now to pop the trunk i pull the wire from the back seat. Hope this helps.
a few inches above the hoo latch
It is part of the latch, inside the door.It is part of the latch, inside the door.
It is inside the latch itself.
I think you need to take out the back seat and go thru the trunk and turn the latch manully, then check your lock cyc. connection to the latch assembly.
The ajar switch is part of the latch, inside the door.
The door ajar switch is part of the latch, inside the door.
To fix the 300m latch, you will need to remove the inner door panel. After the door panel has been removed, then you can check the door latch components to determine what has broken and how to best repair it.
No, cable.
because it doesnt
I found this solution on the web somewhere and it worked. Have another person pull the latch release inside the car while you press down on the hood itself. It got my hood open. Good luck with this.
Classic problem with Spyder. The latch cable has problems releasing the engine latch. Pull hood release inside car then go arround to back and push down on hood. It should pop the latch. Try several times if that doesnt work the first time.
The sensor is part of the door latch. You would have to remove the door pne and unplug the latch.