TO REMOVE IT YOU NEED A SLIDE HAMMER AND PULLER ADAPTER TO PLACE AROUND THE SHAFT WHERE THE C CLIP IS (REMOVE IT FIRST AND ATTACH THE PULLER ADAPTER AND THERE YOU HAVE IT
It is the same basic procedure as thee left side with one exception. Remove the cotter pin and retainer from the stub shaft. Break the hub nut loose with a socket and large breaker bar. Loosen the lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Detach the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm. Pry the lower control arm down and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Remove the the brake caliper and suspend it on a wire. Remove the brake disc. Remove the drive axle hub nut and washer.Using a a two-jaw puller, press the stub shaft until it breaks free. To remove the right side drive axle, mark the relationship between the the axle center bearing retainer and bracket and remove the axle bearing retainer bolts. Position a large pry bar behind the flange of the inner CV joint and pry sharply to free the circlip on the inner CV joint stub shaft from the transaxle. Pull the strut away from the vehicle and separate the stub from the hub. Remove the drive axle from the vehicle. When reinstalling the drive axle. support the CV joints. NOTE: There is no circlip on the right side inner CV joint stub shaft.
stb shaft automotive
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i am also researching this question for myself. the only thing that i have found for far is a thread from a forum that says that they used a large slide hammer. not for sure if that will remove it without damaging anything so im going to keep looking aswell. hope this kinda helps..
Place a blunted chisel on the inside of seal and hit down with hammer.
What field...welding?
I think you will find that they are on a shaft much like the drive shafts on older 4x4's. You'll need to drop the ball joints, remove drive shaft nut on wheel end and pull wheel towards you which should allow you to remove cv joint. You might need to tap the joint where you removed the nut to loosen joint as they sometimes stick. Once you have done that then all you should need to do is pull on the axel and when you have it it should leave a stub. Again you might need to tap it with a hammer to loosen it up so it'll pull out.
Remove wheel undo center driveshaft nut in center of rotor separate spindle from control arm by undoing ball joint pull spindle out and off to one side while sliding end driveshaft stub spline out of hub (rotor center) take a long screwdriver or prybar and pry inner driveshaft joint out of trany reverse to install **check seal on trany for damage or just change it to be safe & top up trany**
Remove tire/caliper/rotor/tie rod/ball joint/pull steering arm back/ pull cv axle back towards diff and remove from steering arm/then just pull it straight out ofintermdiate shaft/thats it u're gonna need a BIG puller and a bigger hammer to remove the hub bearing. Don't be surprised if you destroy the bearing in the processand if it still doesnt come out you might end up having to change the stub shaft coming out of the differential as well as the CV shaft simply because the two will not separate from each other..... and also If there is no room to slide them out together, then you will need to cut the shaft to give yourself some clearance
This is an involved procedure compared to the left shaft, but basically the same. The noise could be that the shaft was not fully seated in the transaxle. Or the washer was not put back in place at the outer stub. Did you use a new nut to attach the outer stub? The only other possibility is faulty new shaft bearings.
two methods; one: disconnect the lower ball joint from the wishbone so the entire strut can pivot forward, put your wheel on and give it a swift jerk. two: use a large pry bar and pry against the inside c/v joint and the transmission body. the stub shaft has a small spring ring which needs to collapse in it's groove in order for it to come out. when re-installing it, make sure the stub shaft goes all the way in so the spring ring can expand and home the shaft in place. a word of caution: on some transaxles if you pull both shafts, the carrier could drop so do one shaft at a time or use a tight fitting round stick to hold everything so you can stab the shafts back in without having to fish around for alignment.
loosen the axle nut loosen the lug nuts raise the front remove the wheels drain the trans fluid release the ball joint nut, but don't remove it strike the lower control arm perpendicular to the ball joint stud to release it pull the wheel assembly far enough out from the car to clear the axle using a pry bar, remove the stub axle from the transmission install the new axle into the transmission insert the axle into the wheel assembly assemble the ball joint tighten the axle nut best you can replace the wheel drop the car tighten the lug nuts tighten the axle nut hammer the flange of the nut into the groove of the axle replace the wheel center cap refill with trans fluid check for leaks or loose parts