1Remove tires. 2 there will be an Alan key on outside of hubs (where you grab to lock or unlock hubs) remove them. 3 you will need either the heavy-duty or light duty sucket to remove the nut. 4 there are springs behind the nut generally but it all comes apart piece by piece. just remember how to put it back together. Its really easy.
Yes, if they are not totally worn out.
if your looking for the front abs sensors thay are located in the hubs, and would have to remove front tire, brakes,caliper, and rotor to remove.
Methinks, 'you really r e a l l y don't want to do that!' Unless, someday when you push the button and want the auto hubs to engage, it really won't matter whether they do or not......
The auto hubs do not cause any additional problems on this year model. Simply remove the wheel, unbolt the casliper, remove disk retention bolts, and slide disk from vehicle.
Get a shop manual for about $18 and it has pictures and everything.
wear gloves, bearings all come out. then you have to remove the sensor off the back of it. along with 6 17mm bolts. How do you change the rotors in the front on a 1998 Isuzu Trooper
the truck has hubs. 4x4 front wheel bearings are not serviceable.
mounted to the front hubs remove calipers and rotors follow the wire that runs to the hub
If 4-wheel drive is not needed, you should unlock the front hubs. Yes, the hubs remain locked even if your front transfer case is not set to 4-wheel drive, and this can be very hard on both the hubs and transfer case.
The hubs lock the axel to the hub, which drives the wheel. With the transfer case in 2WD, the rear driveshaft drives the rear wheels. Without front hubs, in 2WD, as the front tires roll, they spin the axles and the front driveshaft. With lock out hubs, in 2WD and the hubs unlocked only the tires spin. However, in 4WD if you forget to lock the hubs, only the driveshafts and axles spin. When I lived in MI, in the winter I always kept my hubs "locked", this way I could shift into 4WD whenever I needed to without getting out in the cold to "lock" the hubs.
I worked in a Chevy dealer for 17 years, and have replace many front hubs on the Chevy trucks. The newer styles seemed to have poor quality hub bearings, even in the 8 lug HD configuration. In fact, I replaced many of the 8 lug hubs for bad bearings, and almost NO 6 lug light duty hubs. The 90's style hubs virtually never went bad if they weren't subjected to abuse.
A diagram of the Ford F1 50 front hubs can be obtained from most Ford dealerships. The front hub diagram can be found at most auto-parts stores.
I have a 2005 which does have locking hubs, but that is so you can lock your differential from slipping. If you're stuck on a hill with all 4 wheels spinning, lock the hubs and your gear ratio is far apart, your front wheels won't spin, and the front wheels will actually do the pulling. Whether yours has locking hubs depends on the year of F250. Later F250's, I believe beginning with the 1998 models, do have auto-locking / manual hubs. The later F250 hubs can be activated manually or electronically. When you electronically turn on the 4wd ("shift-on-the-fly"), you engage the transfer case, front drive shaft, and front axle shafts. Also, when you electronically turn on the 4wd you activate a vacuum solenoid, which provides a vacuum source to each of your front hubs to engage them. The front hubs only connect the front wheels to the front axle shafts and has nothing to do with the front axle differential, which is an open differential unless you have a differential other than the factory installed piece.
If the hubs are stuck in the lock position you will have to remove them and try to clean them and put fresh grease in them check the springs make shure they are not broken or tenson is gone out of them best idea is to swap them for warn manual hubs as the auto hubs are known for not working properly, i changed mine over to the warn manual locking hubs you can get the kits off e-bay
That is just a figure of speech,( automatic hubs) on a 1990 model 4x4. There are no hubs to remove, It has a 1/2 shaft with CV joints-- AXEL SHAFT, And when ingaged in 4-wheel drive it locks the ring and pinion in instead of lock-outs, There is nothing to remove.
If it has hubs, they can be replaced. I'm assuming that, by 'straight axle truck', you're referring to one which uses a solid front axle, rather than independent front suspension? Those use hubs, as well.
Engages automatic locking hubs on for wheels drives with automatic hubs.
4x4 hubs will have oil.2 wheel drive will have grease
the hubs are bad buy new ones i had the same problem
What do you mean by fixed front hubs...?...the hubs should be free wheeling while you have the switches in the centre of the hub turned in one direction...and fixed when you have them turned in the other direction...
Your hubs should have a "Locked" and an "Auto" setting. Under normal conditions, you should run in auto. Then if you need 4-wheel drive, flip the switch. Should the switch ever malfunction or go out, you have to manually lock and unlock (auto position) the hubs.
The Ford locking hubs allow you to manually disconnect the front wheels of your vehicle from the front half shafts. This basically shuts the 4 wheel drive off.
Lock out hubs release a tensioned spring that holds a splined gear over the outter end of the front drive axle. These cogs are splined to the axle on their inside,and geared to the hubs on their outside perimeter , making the connection between the two when locked in. These are located on each outter axle end ,in the hubs, at the center of the front wheels. When unlocked the front axles and front driveshaft are no longer forced to turn with the tire.
No, there are no manual hubs on the 94 Silerado. They have an independent front suspension that doesn't have hubs. All the engaging is done in the front differential. If you look under the front of the truck, you will see the half shafts (or CV axles, smae thing), and where they bolt to the center chunk.
check the hubs most of the time the hubs need to be replaced