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<SPAN class=cs_misspelled>==</SPAN> <SPAN class=cs_misspelled>==</SPAN> Use a good quality <SPAN class=cs_misspelled>pentrating</SPAN> lubricant and be patient. You may to spray some on and let it set it and then spray some more on. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off all of the corners of the nut. If that does not work, you can resort to the <SPAN class=cs_misspelled>vise-grips.</SPAN>

It has been my <SPAN style="POSITION: static" textContent="null">experience</SPAN> that if you start with <SPAN style="POSITION: static" textContent="null">vise-grips</SPAN> and apply enough pressure on each flat to dislodge the threads from wheel <SPAN style="POSITION: static" class=cs_misspelled>cylinder (do</SPAN> not attempt to turn fitting at this point) then when you clamp on the last flat and turn the <SPAN style="POSITION: static" textContent="null">fitting</SPAN> it will come out very <SPAN style="POSITION: static" textContent="null">easily.</SPAN>

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Q: How do you remove rusted brake line connectors from master and wheel cylinders?
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