I just replaced mine. The process is pretty straight forward. Obviously, step one is to disconnect your battery. I wasn't sure if the alternator would come up through the top for removal, so I opted to remove the splash guard from the bottom front of the engine. I then jacked the car up and it gave me great access to some of the work from underneath. The alternator was easily removed through the bottom. There are two electrical connections at the alternator. One bolts on from the battery, and one is a plugin connection that requires you to push the tab in before pulling the connector off. You can decide for yourself whether you want to do this while the alternator is bolted up or whether you want to loosen the alternator to have better access to these connections. I personally took the top bolt out and loosened the bottom bolt before removing the electrical connections. NOTE: my new alternator (rebuilt technically) came with an insulating block that did not work with the battery cable connection, so you will want to check this before returning your core in case you need to take the insulating block off your old alternator. The alternator is held on by two bolts. The top bolt is part of the tensioner, which uses, thankfully, an old style bolt system to tension a separate alternator belt. Once you remove the top bolt the tensioner can be removed by sliding it towards the rear of the car through the slot it sits in. The bottom bolt has fallen prey to what I consider an engineering oversite. The bolt threads out towards the back of the engine, and because of this, you have to remove the stiffening arm that sits right behind this bolt. Fortunately, the stiffening arm is held on by three bolts, all of which are easy to get to. Once this arm is out of the way you can remove the bottom bolt. Reassemble in the reverse order, connect your battery, reprogram your radio, etc. Your fault codes are going to be cleared, so if you needed this information for any reason, get it read before disconnecting your battery.
A 1999 Mazda Miata requires 4.0 quarts of oil.
Remove the power steering belt first then the alternator belt will go on.
You can get a 1999 Mazda Miata fuel cap at any auto parts store.
185/60r14
how do you run the wire for the power windows on a 91 Mazda miata
Behind driver seat under insulation is a lid with screws, remove and youll see a fuel pump..... hooray
The 1999 Mazda 626 alternator is located on the right hand side of the engine. The alternator will be near the front of the engine.
The 1999 Mazda Miata is a returnless fuel system. It has a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the tank (above the fuel pump), and a snub at the end of the fuel rail.
city 25mpg hwy 28-33mpg
On a 1999-2005 model Mazda Miata the camshaft position sensor is located on the valve cover towards the rear of the engine (closest to the firewall). It has one 3-pin connector connected to it and one 10mm bolt to remove the sensor
Yes. Bear in mind that 1999-2000 leather seats are considered the worst seats amongst Miata owners due to poor back support.
The tail light covers (the painted bezels) are only held on by 3m Automotive, double-sided tape.