How do you remove the cab from a Toyota pickup truck?

Answer 1

Toyota Cab Removal

There is a lot of prep work that has to be done before hand.

(Caution: This piece is very, VERY heavy,). To prevent body damage and lighten the weight:

Remove the doors, fenders, hood and seat.

DO NOT !!! rig thru your door openings or lift by the roof !!! The roof WILL NOT !!! support the weight of the cab.The cab is just too heavy, you will ruin the cab.

Remove the front clip and the bed.

Disconnect the steering column -clutch linkage - heater & A/C hoses - and wiring harness.

Remove the 4 cab mount bolts - disconnect the brake fluid lines, connected to the brake booster.

Disconnect the pedal assembly from the firewall and the emergency brake cable.

Step on the pedal and place a clamp on the cable - release the pedal and unhook the cable. With needle nose pliers be sure to also unhook the retainer clip. Pull the brake cable through the firewall.

Unhook your wiring block, oil pressure sender and tube, Disconnect the bus bar unscrew your dash face and remove.

Unbolt and pull out the instrument cluster, while your doing this reach behind it and push on the retainer clip holding the speedo cable and it will come out of the cluster. Pull this cable through the firewall then remove the transmission shifter cover and/or linkages.

Before lifting the old cab - you will need to measure from the body line to the frame both in the front end rear of the cab. Also, scribe a mark on NEW your cab where the back of the frame lines up.

This is to make sure your cab is aligned properly.

Run a couple of 2x6's under the cab, under your floor beside your rocker panels, from front to back with eyelets secured in each end.

Then connected a couple of 20' tow straps to the eyelets. Maneuver the boom of the hoist over the top of the cab and once in place, hooked the straps into the tow hooks.

Making sure everything is disconnected - remove the cab.

(Caution: Again, this piece is very, VERY heavy,)

Nylon flat straps are the best thing ever for this operation. You can get something rated WAY over 2000 pounds fairly inexpensively. Go for overkill so that straps are the last thing you worry with during the lift.

Rig your lift straps from front to back on the cab only, not the clip.

Your center of gravity will be strait up over your cowl vent.

You might need a spur line from your hook to the radiator support to catch any little imballance and it will also stop most see-sawing, but the spur line shouldn't be given more than 100 pounds of tension.

Again...Don't rig thru your door openings or lift by the roof! The roof will not support the weight of the cab.

The cab is just too heavy, you will ruin the cab.

Run your 2 straps down each side of your rear window on the outside left and right, under your floor beside your rocker panels, up the firewall looping outside your front cab mounts, and hook all together somewhere over the cowl vent.

Put some cardboard or something between your straps and the sharp edges (bottom of back cab wall, lip on firewall, etc.)

The cab should be pulled with the bed removed.

Take some 4x4's and a jack at each corner. Put a pad under each cab corner and lift it as high as needed. You can bridge across with some planks.

Bridging at the rear corners, front corners, and behind the radiator support (if possible), then jacking it all up enough to clear the wheels.

Hoist the cab over the motor.

Removing the front clip is only a few bolts more.

An empty cab (no doors, fenders or seat) can be lifted easier without body damage. Which would defeat your purpose !!!