Just completed both sides last night (2-3 hrs per side). Mine was leaking at the seal that allows the front axle to pivot for steering. First off always follow basic safety rules. 1. Put tractor on jack stands (you'll need your jack later). 2. Never get under a jacked up vehicle. 3. Protect your eyes and skin. You will need basic mechanical skills, tools (heavy duty internal & external snap ring pliers are a must and some parts cleaner), and replacement parts (replacement seals and new axle lube oil at minimum) Go online and down load a schematic diagram of the front axle case. This will show you all of the parts and assembly order. 1. Break loose the lug nuts, jack up tractor and put on jack stands, remove lug nuts & wheel. Clean outside of axle & gear case. Push down on end of the axle your working on and insert 2x4 wood block (near frame point under engine) so that this side is lower than the other side. Drain oil. 2. Remove seal/plug from bottom of Front Gear Case (no need to open Front Gear Case unless axle bearing damage is suspected), remove internal snap ring & shim, remove bearing/bevel gear/shaft. 3. Remove external snap ring from the end of the Bevel Gear Case **Be prepared for the HEAVY gear case to drop/watch your fingers**. Lower Front Gear Case off end of axle. It will still be attached to the steering tie rod. 4. Pry upper half of seal off of the Bevel Gear Case (end of axle). Pry lower half of seal from the top of the Front Gear Case. Clean & lube seal seating surfaces, clean 2 bearings visible in the Front Gear Case (they should spin freely). 5. Install new seal onto Bevel Gear Case (end of axle) until fully seated. 6. Lift heavy Front Gear Case back onto Bevel Gear Case. (I balanced the Front Gear Case on a floor jack and slowly jacked it into place while checking bearings inside aligned with Bevel Gear Case.) Jack up Front gear case until it is fully seated on seal (Check that you can see snap ring groove). 7. Install external snap ring on end of Bevel Gear Case. Install shaft, bevel gear, bearing, shim, snap ring and bottom plug/seal. 8. Add recommended type & quantity of axle oil. Check for leaks. Take tractor off of jack stands and drive around for 5 minutes while observing for any unusual sounds/shakes/wobbles. Inspect for leaks again. Congrats you just saved several hundreds of dollars in shop labor. Go have a beer. Dirk Dudeck.
A "mechanical front wheel drive" tractor has front-wheel-assist which means that not only the rear drive wheels pull the tractor ahead, but the front wheels also pull the tractor.
Front End Loader
its the front one on a tractor always.
A tractor weight is either put on the wheels as wheel weights or as suitcase weights in the front of the tractor. they add stability and traction.
with your eyes
The Explosives 1.3 placard may be placed on either the front of the tractor or the front of the trailer
The water adds weight to the back or the front of the tractor, depending on where you need it. This allows you to use a front end loader without an implement on the back.
You do not repair them you replace them.
Snowplow or Bulldozer (apparently)
A conventional tractor is what much of the world outside of North America refers to as a "bonneted" or "hooded" tractor. It has a hood which extends out in front of the cab. This is in opposition to a COE (cab-over-engine) tractor, where there is no hood.
Because the front tyres are used to actually steer the tractor, whereas the rear ones typically are not. Thus, it's important to ensure that the front tyres have enough clearance to where they won't rub against the frame or other components of the tractor when they're turned.
If the tractor trailers has duels only. You have 18 weels. (10 on front 8 on back) If the tractor trailers has super singles only, you got 10 wheels (6 wheels on the front and 4 on the back) If the trailer has super singles only, you have 14 wheels, (tractor has 10 wheels and trailer has 4) If your tractor has super singles only you looking at having, 14 wheels (6 wheels on the front 8 on the back)