How do you repair a 96 Oldsmobile achieva dash gauges?

Answer 1

Performing a repair on the gauges yourself is probably not an option, as it would require extensive training as an electronics technician, schematics, and other technical information. The gauges are all in a single instrument panel cluster unit. Your best bet is to send it to a speedometer shop that can do those repairs, or to replace the unit with a used or new one.

I found a used one by calling a local used auto parts place that searched it for me, cost $150. I also had two repair estimates from speedometer shops (Southern Electronics, and DNA Speedometer) and they ranged from $150-$250. A new one is available through a dealer ($???), or gmpartsdirect.com ($450). Since I decided on used, I cannot comment on any of the repair shops.

The vehicle cannot be driven with the cluster removed (even if it wasn't illegal, the cluster is part of the anti-theft system), so that might influence your decision. On the

other hand, a replacement has other issues with the odometer.

AutoZone.com has these instructions:

http://www.autozone.com/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/5e/c8/0900823d800e5ec8/repairInfoPages.htm

I think they go a bit far in what they have you remove, but your mileage may vary. They're also more general, in that they say "Remove this", but don't necessarily tell you what tools you need. But, probably a good reference to have, and there's at least a drawing showing where some of the fasteners are.

You should make sure you disconnect the battery and disarm the supplemental inflatable restraint system. There's directions for that, though for a different model Olds, on the autozone.com site here: http://www.autozone.com/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/bc/24/0900823d801ebc24/repairInfoPages.htm

They match the data for the 1996 Olds Achieva on alldatadiy.com (subscription required for that, though).

I've read the (relatively brief and vague) directions for how to do this on alldatadiy.com, and they said to remove the steering wheel... I didn't want to go anywhere near that, and managed to do the whole thing without it, but believe me, it is often a tight fit. If you feel comfortable removing the steering wheel, you go right ahead. I'll repeat the warning about disarming the airbag, though.

If I remember correct, you need a Torx T-25, and a 7mm socket / driver, and a stubby Phillips driver would probably be useful, too. I also find its a good idea to have something to hold all the various screws, preferably something that lets you label them so you know where to put them all back.

To remove the instrument panel, I first removed the lower sound insulator panel (down by where your feet go) by twisting the plastic fasteners, tipping it down, then pulling it towards me. The back was held by friction pins, so no screws had to be removed. I then removed the steering column cover. That required first removing the tilt wheel lever (it screws in, and they had glued the threads, so it took some effort). Then I used a torx driver to remove the screws on the bottom of the cover, and pulled it apart. There are little rubber covered pins holding the sections together on the end closest to the dash, just be careful to not lose the rubber covers. With that out of the way, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the lower panel, and I think there was a screw on the left side (over by the door) too. In addition to the screws, the panel is held in place by locator pins and panel fasteners (i.e. friction), so it's a matter of prying / pulling the lower panel out CAREFULLY. I also had to remove screws on the passenger side, around the glove box (which required removing the glove box - empty it, and it tips out if you manipulate it properly). I left the lower panel attached on the far right, and just bent it out enough to remove the bezel. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, I'm sure you can take it completely off.

I don't recall why, but I ended up loosening the radio. I didn't have to remove it.

Removing the bezel was more of a problem. There are a couple of screws that should have been revealed by removing the lower panel, and there are 4 at the top above the panel. The bezel is also attached to the vent. Probably because I hadn't removed the steering wheel, I couldn't get the bezel off with the vent duct sticking into the climate system, because I couldn't just pull straight inward. I ended up removing the vent duct from the bezel with a short stubby Phillips screwdriver - there are two screws driven from the other side (front of car) toward you around the vent duct. You also have to carefully disconnect the wires for the dimmer, traction control, rear defroster, etc. Then, take the bezel off. It was a tight fit to get it past the hazard lights switch and the steering wheel, but I carefully wedged it through. Just be careful, the plastic can be brittle and crack. The instrument panel cluster should now be accessible. There are 4 screws around the cluster. Once you remove the screws, The panel has two connectors on the right side, one is very small and contains two wires (the light sensor for the headlights), and one is big (everything else).

Install the new / used / repaired panel, and reverse the above.

If you decided to go the route of replacing the panel (or even if it was repaired, depending on the repair), you will need to train the vehicle anti-theft system (PASSLOCK). Reconnect the battery (you did disconnect it, right?). Put the key in, and rotate the key all the way to the CRANK position, as if starting normally. The car should start briefly, then stall immediately. The SECURITY light on the instrument panel should be ON. Leave the key in the RUN position for approximately 10 minutes, at which point the SECURITY light should go out. The vehicle should now start normally.

Don't forget to rearm the supplemental inflatable restraint system before operating the vehicle.