From Mike Watkins at ClubGP.com:
I've snapped so many studs on my car I can do them practically in my sleep.
Here's what you'll need to do:
If you have access to basic shop tools, and compressed air, this will go unbelieveably easy. If not, it's going to be a little tough, and I would even go so far as to recommend taking it to a repair shop to have them do it. The small amount you would pay someone will protect your sanity if you don't have a good selection of tools.
With that being said, let's move on to what you'll need to get the job done...
First off, I'm going to assume you're replacing a stud on a front wheel, so this is the procedure I'm going to give you. If it's a rear one, the concept is the same, but they're somewhat easier.
Tools you'll need: 15mm deep socket Ratchet and/or breaker bar Air impact gun with 19mm socket Jack Jackstands Air or electric angle grinder Good size hammer 1/4" punch (drift)
-Get the car elevated and remove the wheel, and also the caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. -Rotate the hub so the broken stud is at approximately the 2:00 o' clock position -Take your punch and hammer and smack the remainder of the broken stud out of the hub. -Take your angle grinder and grind a small portion of the knuckle to allow for clearance of the replacement stud, and also grind grind a flat spot on the side of the base of the new stud. This will reduce the amount of material that needs to be ground off the knuckle. -Once the stud can pop thru into the hub, take a M12x1.5 lugnut with an open end and install it on the stud upside down with the taper facing you. Start it snug so the stud starts into the hub squarely. Take your impact and while watching the backside of the stud, tighten it up till it's drawn in completely. Your impact will probably just stop at this point. Reverse the impact, and remove the nut. -Reassemble your rotor, and caliper and reinstall your wheel. Torque all lugnuts to 100 ft/lbs and re-torque them again after 50 miles.
Even to a novice, this shouldn't take much longer than a half hour.
I've got it down to under 10 minutes.
Another approach - less work but requires right tools: Remove wheel, brake caliper and disc. Knock the old stud loose with a hammer. On the inside of the hub there are 3 bolt heads that hold the bearing assembly in place. Using a deep socket and a cheater bar for leverage, loosen these about 1/2". This allows enough clearance to remove and replace the bad stud. Tighten up the 3 back bolts, pull the stud into place using a stack of washers and a wheel stud nut, and you're in business with no grinding required.
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