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Parts needed:2 sets of 6-1/2 speakers

4 one inch spacers (for each speaker)

16 two inch self tapping screws to mount the speakers to existing screw holes


Cut off the connector that is part of the body of the OE speakers and solder them to the pigtails that came with the replacement speakers. This will allow for a clean install without cutting wires. If you want to get fancy the spaces can be cut to install the OE connector through the spacer ring's side similar to the layout of the OE speaker and then weld it into position by melting bits of discarded plastic from the OE speaker frame with a soldering iron.

Here is how I did my car (2000 TDI Beetle without Monsoon sound system.) Rear and Front door speakers are 6 1/2".

First of all, don't even start until you have the specialized adapters for the front door speakers (see description below.) My project came to a screeching halt (half done) until I acquired these. While you're at it, acquire a nice set of Torx drivers too.

Rear Speakers: The interior panels come off all in one piece. The front-most point is floor level about 150mm (well you do own a German car don't you?) before the back of the doorway (when the door is opened.) The back-most point of the panel is about even with the upright part of the rear seat. First pull outward around the back and bottom of the panel to pop out the little plastic clips that hold the panel to the car body. Do not pull outward at the top of the panel (where it meets rear window.) There is a little "shelf" here on the panel that needs to disengage by pulling the panel _upward_ AFTER the little plastic clips at the periphery have been undone. The one shelf I broke re-attached successfully with epoxy and a set of small clamps.

After you get the interior panel off, you will see the 6 1/2" speaker mounted in a fairly flimsy mounting panel that buzzes after replacing the speakers. This mounting panel is attached to the car body by 4 rivets. I fixed the buzzing by drilling out the rivets, removing the mount panel entirely, putting nice pieces of rubber where car body meets mount panel, then re-attaching the mount panel with sheet metal screws. I don't remember the diameter of the screws, but it was the largest diameter screw I could find at my local Home Despot store. Also I had to saw off the back screws so they didn't punch holes in the car body. The front screws had plenty of room. Dynamat (TM) is a nice, if preposterously expensive, way to kill some of the vibrations the mount panel will light itself up with if left per the factory installation. If you're resourceful you can probably find a good damping material and adhesive to mount to these panels to kill some of the stray vibrations here. I'm sorry to report I can't give you guidance on the polarity of the speaker wires (which had colors that gave no clue as to the polarity.) I just attached them temporarily each way, listened, and picked the polarity that sounded best. Don't cut the original speaker wires completely, just strip off a centimeter or so of insulation and solder on a new lead for your new speaker. Please _do_ keep track of which speaker wire is attached to the terminal with the small spade on the factory speaker so at least you can wire both rear speakers with the same polarity. Don't worry too much, you won't damage anything by switching the polarity, but the speakers might sound different. There's probably a better way to do this part, but that's how I did it.

Front Speakers: You will probably need to buy specialized adapters to mount the speakers roughly 30 mm outward from the plane of the interior surface of the door. My adapters are manufactured by a company named Scosche, but at least one other company makes ones that work well too. While you're at it, also make sure you have the right torx driver (is it a #20?) to undo the three screws at the bottom of the door's interior panel. Also be prepared to drill out the rivets that hold the speakers in the front door. Sounds scary, but don't let this part stop you. There is also a chance your new speakers are deeper than the factory ones, which means you might need to cut holes in the interior panel. This also sounds scarier than it really is. Take heart. It's worth it. The factory speakers are positively junky!


Unscrew the three screws along the very bottom of the door panel with your shiny new Torx driver. Pry off the small (~30 mm x 150 mm curved) crescent part on the interior door handle and undo the screws you find there. Now you are ready to undo the plastic mounts and "shelf" near the window in the same way as described above for the rear interior panel. Pop the plastic mounts out at the bottom and sides. Then pull upward on the panel to release it from it's mount at the top part. Mine struggled and reisisted, but eventually came without breaking anything. On the inside of the panel you will find a half dozen or so various electrical connections (door locks, gas cap cover latch switch, etc.) to detach to remove the panel. These are easier to re-attach during reassembly than I thought they were going to be. Each wire kind of remembers the location and orientation where it was attached, and the connectors allow only one way of connecting, so this worked well. The door latch was a mechanical thingie that was pretty easy to undo and redo (I have already forgotten the details.)

Drill out the rivets holding those cheezy factory speakers, and the rest should be fairly straightforward. ;) Make sure the new speaker doesn't interfere with rolling the window all the way down. To check, you can actuate the window even with the door panel & connectors off by putting the key in the outside door keyhole and turning & holding the key for several seconds.

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βˆ™ 2015-07-15 20:45:59
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