How do you replace the headlight bulb on a Honda CR-V?

Answer 1

It's simple , i changed both my bulbs in under 5 min... first start by unplugging the plug from the bulb... take off the rubber surrounding around where the plug plugs into the bulb .. there is a little metal clip that u just have to slip out from under a little hook that holds it down...once that's unlatched you just pull out the old bulb and place the new one in very gently... you should go in exactly how the old bulb did ... then just relatch that little metal clip , pop the rubber surrounding back on making sure you put it on write with the side labeled top on the top , then just plug the socket back into the bulb... simple as that...

I concur with the 5 minute solution mentioned above. I own a 2002 Honda CR-V, and it wasn't hard at all to access. As a matter of fact, it was easier to replace the driver side more so than the passenger side for me. There is a metal clip that is referred to as the "Hold down wire" in the previous answer below. That's a misleading term and is confusing. It's a clip that swings across the back and holds the bulb in place(see related links below). Looking from the back of the bulb, the clip has a curved end on the right side that serves as a "handle". Just push down slightly and back and let it spring free. The clip should then swing back (like a door). Also, my first lamp was snug, but came out real easy. The second lamp was real loose and I almost pulled it out, accidentally. So, just be aware that the secureness of the bulb varies. I found a YouTube video that was excellent in demonstrating the procedure and posted it in the related links below. I have also posted a diagram of the bulb replacement in the related links as well. Just be patient and don't be intimidated. It's easy.

A little clarification to the original answer.

It's really tight, you can't really see what you're doing so it involves a lot of feeling around. I found that you can see how everything connects a little easier on the passenger side, but it's just unhook wiring - pull off rubber, push over the spring clip, pull out the bulb out of it's connector, put in the new bulb in the connector, slide it back into the headlight unit, snap in the metal spring, put back on the rubber gasket, and plug in the electrical connection.

I just replaced the bulb on my 2000 CRV and it was not tight at all. You can see the back of the headlights when you open the hood. This may be a more difficult task on a newer CRV, but on the original body style don't be afraid to take this on. Also, the owners manual has a good picture with the instructions.

One very important reminder . DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB. The oils on your skin will cause the bulb to fail very quickly.

The Honda Dealership removed the entire headlamp to replace the bulb. they asked for $100.00 until I blew a gasket in the repair shop.

It is very hard to see anything the way this is designed and the two above make it sound as if getting the pin unlatched and re latched is a snap however when the dealership admits that it is a horribly inadequate design so much so that removing the entire headlamp is easier then you know it is a terrible design.

So while they are technically correct in their procedure most people will not be finishing this task in 10 minutes. The first two steps are a breeze, getting that pin off when you can't see it is bad enough but getting it back on when you can't see then you must have incredible patience.

I spent over three hours replacing a head light bulb on a 2006 Honda CR-V. That is actual labor time, not including researching how to do it in the owner's manual and on the internet, and it does not include retrieving a dropped bulb. Based on my experience I would like to add some details to the guidance I found on this site and the instructions in the owners manual. I would also like to express my appreciation to those that contributed information on this challenging problem.

1 - The electrical connector at the rear of the bulb is not easily "pulled straight back" as described in the owner's manual. The prongs of the bulb holder seemed to have been greased by the manufacturer so subsequent removals of the connector may be even more difficult, but my fingers were not strong enough hold the connector and pull it off the prongs of the bulb holder. However, there is a groove between the edged of the connector and the bulb holder, into which I was able to insert a small flat blade screwdriver and thereby pry the connector loose. American Grease Products (AGS) makes a product called "Bulb Grease" that's available online and in most auto stores for under $2 that will allow you to re-grease the electrical connection, improving bulb performance and making future replacements easier.

2 - The directions in the owner's manual notwithstanding, the rubber weather seal will not "pull" off no matter how hard you pull on the tab(s). IF, repeat if, you have a pair of pliers that you can maneuver into the limited space, you might be able to tear a tab off. I recommend that one use a pair of worn (so there are no sharp edges) flat blade screwdrivers. Using the surrounding plastic round frame, use the blades of the screwdrivers to push the outer ring of the rubber boot towards the rear of the vehicle. Once a third of the boot is peeled back it is easy to pull the boot off with or without using the tabs.

3 - The infamous hold-down wire is latched in place by means of it being routed through a slot near the bulb holder base. The slot opening is slightly closer to the front of the vehicle than the inner end of the slot. Therefore, while difficult nevertheless, it helps to push the upper end of the hold-down wire both towards the open end of the slot and towards the front of the vehicle to pop it out of the slot. The end of the hold-down wire is bent in the shape of a triangle. The point of the triangle that is not on the side of the triangle that is parallel to the side of the vehicle, e.g. the end of the triangle where the triangle is "open" because it is formed by the end of the wire, "points" in the direction the hold-down wire must be moved to get it out of the slot. As you cannot see or feel the slot, this triangle is the only indication available as to in which direction the wire needs to be moved.

4 - What no one, Honda or prior entries, has stated is that there is a top and bottom to the bulb. While the rectangular base of the bulb will pass through the rectangular opening in the headlight housing as long as the long sides of the base are vertical, put in one way the bulb will not seat. Note carefully that there is a dimple on one side of the rectangular base mid-way along a long edge and a dimple on the other side of the rectangular base that is not-mid way along the side. These dimples keep the bulb from seating when the bulb is installed "upside down." The bulb is "right side up" when the flat on the round bulb base is in a 5 o'clock position (down and to your right) when you are viewing the bulb assembly from the end that will be towards on-coming traffic. In this position the dimple that is not centered along the rectangular side of the bulb is up and to your right. I am not certain that it matters because the bulb holder appears to be entirely symmetrical, but when I was finally successful in installing the bulb off-center dimple was on the side of the bulb holder that had the red tinted prong and I had noted that the red tinted prong was located towards the left side of the vehicle when I first removed the bulb.

5 - To clip the hold-down wire back in place push the tip of the hold-down wire towards the bulb (towards the "flat" side of the triangle, then towards the front of the vehicle, then towards the open end of the triangle and then back towards the flat end of the triangle e.g. back towards the bulb. After many tries to latch the hold-down wire in place, I got it latched on the second attempt by following these steps.

6 - The hold-down wire can be bent. I don't advise using needle nosed pliers or screw drivers to maneuver the wire. I think it could be bent. Myself, I don't have a triangle any more; the end of my hold-down wire is now a square with one open side because I grasp the wire with needle nosed pliers.

7 - Be careful to not drop the bulb and bulb holder into the engine compartment.

8 - Replacement of bulbs on the left side of the vehicle is considerably easier if you remove the battery. You can even see what you are doing with the battery out of the way. I removed the battery and a left side bulb as a way to learn what bulb removal involved before I was able to successfully replace a bulb on the right side. Once I knew what I was doing I dropped the bulb in the bulb holder assembly and it lodged under the wire bundles that are tacked to the sheet metal at bumper level. VERY long needle nosed pliers or a wife with slender fingers are invaluable at this point.

I found the above instruction very helpful. I succeeded, eventually! First time it took about 20min to replace the passenger's side and a weekend (many attempts) to replace the driver's side. I've just replaced the passenger's side again (after a year) and it took 5min. All I would add is: practice replacing the hold-down wire without the new bulb in place. Also, a plaster on the tip of your finger helps, although it doesn't require too much pressure. A little practice goes a long way!

About the first answer:

I too was able to change both my headlights in about 10 minutes and I have fairly large hands. My CRV is a 2004 and I suspect the newer models might be more difficult. I wore cotton gloves and had clean paper towel and alcohol on hand. I think I did it without touching the bulb to anything, so I didn't need to clean the bulb.

Another add-on for this:

1. One side is usually easier to access (the engine bay is not entirely symmetrical). Start with this side to become familiar with the clips and plugs involved.

2. NEVER touch the glass bulb. Finger prints leave oil residue that an cause your bulb to burn out pre-maturely and and/or shatter in your headlamp housing.

I too had difficulty getting the bulb to align properly and also to get that wire clip back in place. I have large hands and it seemed I became a contortionist to finally get everything back in place.

My first suggestion is to get a mirror and look at the installation of the bulb holder after removing the plug and weather boot. It gives you a good idea on what it looks like installed.

The idea about practicing with the wire clip prior to reinstalling the bulb and holder is great. Try it several times and remember how it goes.

One additional not on my experience. After reinstalling, the headlight was dim. Also, when I hit the brights, I lost both the new headlight bulb and the additional headlamp on that same side. This didn't make any sense so I checked the 20amp fuse for the passenger side headlight and it was blown. I replaced it and now all is well. It seems kind of odd, but apparently there is more than one circuit supplying voltage to the headlight.

The CR-V mentioned in this article uses an H4 bulb with 3-prong metal base. Not all bulbs use this type of connector, but the instructions are similar for most car/truck/suv headlight installations.

Lastly, good luck!