First of all, you must mean V8! Anyway, I have an '89 Blazer, for all intents, the procedure is the same. The Chiltons book was totally useless, no pictures or diagrams, actually did more harm than good.The job is done from inside the vehicle, for the most part. You must disconnect the battery negative lead first before doing any job like this. The large plastic housing under the hood which contain the blower motor and air conditioning has 3 nuts surrounding the housing, which have to be removed,the bolts poke out from inside the car. They hold the entire plastic assembly to the inside of the firewall.The two heater hoses that connect to the core must also be removed. Working inside the car, remove the glovebox.The computer must be removed, as well as 3 vacuum solenoid lines, and two cable actuators.Some air directing ductwork will also need to be removed. Then you can pull the entire heater core air directing plenum back a couple of inches,drop it down, and out from under the dash.This plenum assembly has a "cover" of sorts, it must be removed, to change the core. Be careful! Mine showed evidence of a very frustrated tech, cracked and gouged plastic. Remove the three screws that hold the cable support bracket. There are two screws that are not easily seen at the corners of the core, under the foam.The rest of the screws are visible.Pull the cover up slightly and disconnect the vacuum solenoid "link"- it is a slotted hole, remember it's position.The biggest problem that I had was removing the 8 inch long rod/lever from the air directing "flap"- This is the lever that has a long threaded rod with a nylon fitting attached to it. It was badly corroded where it went into the plastic flap, and was very difficult to remove.If you break the plastic you are in trouble.I recommend going to the dealer and buying these two parts-the rod, and rectangular air "flap"-before doing the job. Then using a new core (Advance auto parts only wanted about $25 for a new core) put the whole thing back together, add anti-freeze, and enjoy some real heat! This job took me about 3-4 hours, you will need a set of nutdrivers and a few common wrenches.It is the type of job that gives you graet satisfaction! Good Luck!
actually.,, the V10 and R10 are new model names of the trucks starting in 1987.
blazers full size were actually 5 series, not 10.
10 was only for pickups and burbs. 1/2 ton.
86 and older all models full size were C and K series,.
in 87 these were renamed to R and V
blazers were always C/K5 series
K-5 = full size 4x4 blazer
C-5 would be 2wd version in which was last in 83 but very uncommon., most 2wd blazers were '69-'72
C-5 were still body badged as K-5 however., and makes for more confusion..
i have owned one 1980 C-5 blazer 2wd. most ppl deny their existence sinmply because they think they dont exist because they have never seen one., not many were sold.
Are the door interchangeable on an 1987 chevy truck and an chevy blazer 1988
A "heater" or a "heater core"?
Low coolant? Bad thermostat? Heater core plugged,restricted, or air bound? Water pump not circulating coolant? Heater control cable not adjusted properly?
Drain the water from your 1988 Chevy cooling system. Remove the heater core water supply hoses. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. The heater core will come out.
Yes it will, but you have to put all the blazer engine stuff onto the beretta engine...
There is no choke to adjust.
I have a 1987 Chevy Blazer S 10 4X4 2.8l V6 and the timing recommendation is 10 degrees.
Take the glove box out. Look in behind. Have fun -- it's not a nice job.
you need to take apart the lower dash on the passenger side. This is not a fun job.
we are trying to find regular factory wheels that fit the lug pattern off of a 1997 Chevy blazer s-10 2 wheel drive