How do you replace the intake manifold gaskets on a 1992 Chevy silverado 5.7L V8?

Answer 1

This is fairly simple to do. First drain the radiator of coolant. Disconnect and label vacuum and fuel lines to TBI (Throttle body), as well as the throttle and kick-down cables from TBI. Label and remove spark plug wires (1-8) one at a time from the distributor. Remove the distributo cap and mark the orientation of the distributor rotor to the engine (where it points to), this is important so you can put it back exactly how it is taken out. Unplug the wires going into the base (3 wires). Loosen the hold down clamp bolt (9/16) at the base of the distributor (on the manifold). Lift the distributor straight out and set aside. There are 12 bolts that hold the intake manifold down, remove them all. Carefully pry the intake off the block and heads. set manifold aside. You'll need to clean the intake, block and heads of the old gasket material. A razor blade or sharp putyy knife works wel, just br careful not to gouge any of the mating surfaces. You also do not want any of the old material to fall inside the engine, so old rags or paper towel stuffed into the engine intake ports prevents this. Brake cleaner or Carb/choke cleaner will help get some of the residue off. Once you get all the old gaskets off everything, you can start to prep for re-assembly. Wipe the valley (area under the intake) with a lint-free rag soaked with above mentioned cleaner. The new gaskets are labeled (stamped) engine or intake side, don't put them on upside down or they WILL leak! I use aviation form-a-gasket (it looks like molasses) instead of silicone, but that's just a preference. Put the sealant of your choice around the water jacket holes (2 per side) ONLY. Also on the end pieces on the block (top and bottom). Put the gaskets on the ENGINE, then set the intake on slowly, straight down! The bolts can be started by hand until snug, then tighten them down starting in the center (under TBI) and working towards front and back, alternate from left to right. Torque to 20-25 lb/ft. This ensures an even seal and to prevent warping the intake, which WILL cause leaks! You will need new distributor and water inlet gaskets as well. Now dropping in the distributor is tricky, it has to be put in exactly as it was removed. The mark from earlier is key to the engine firing the first time. It is very easy to put a distributor in 180 Degrees out of normal. If this occurs (don't worry it happens to the best of us!) The rotor MUST point to the mark you made earlier. The trick is to set the rotor pointing BACK from your mark, as the distributor drops down it will rotate to your original mark. If it does not, pull it up and rotate back a little more and try again. If you have problems with this step, take out the #1 Spark plug and rotate engine (by hand) until the mark on the bottom pulley is on ZERO Degrees (there is a line on the pulley). The rotor should point to the #1 spark plug hole. Connect everything back on top (Throttle and kick-down cable) and anything else you disconnected and plug wires on cap (Firing Order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 , fill with fresh antifreeze and water mix. If you have done everything carefully, the engine should start right up. CHECK FOR LEAKS! If water is leaking OUTSIDE the engine, it is leaking INSIDE. Retighten bolts after engine is warm. Good Luck!