I found this with Google, thought it might help:
What I did to remove it:
1) Drained the engine oil
2) (myth #1: the starter must be removed) I only disconnected the positive battery cable.
3) Removed the cooling fan (picture 1)
4) (Myth #2: the upper intake/throttle body must be removed) I unbolted the windshield wiper motor from the firewall and let the motor hang freely, still connected to the wiper lever inside the cowl. To get its three bolts out, I first unscrewed the cowl sheet metal screws at the top of the firewall (picture 2). With those out, the cowl can be slightly flexed upward, allowing just enough room for removal of the three wiper motor bolts.
5) Removed the two motor mount nuts from under the cross member
6) Using an engine hoist, I raised the engine until it met the firewall WHILE positioning the wiper motor clear of the upper intake (picture 3).
7) Placed a jack stand under the harmonic balancer (picture 4) to support the engine.
8) (Myth #3: the oil pump pickup tube or oil pump must be removed) I just unbolted the oil pan, tilted it down and back, the removed it (picture 5). The engine mounts were about about 1.5 inches off the cross member (picture 6). This height allowed the oil pan to just barely clear the bottom of the bell housing.
9) Removed the oil pan gasket.
What I did to install it:
1) Draped a clean rag over the top of the cross member. This kept gunk off the gasket as I dragged it over the cross member to install it.
2) Wiped off the block gasket surface, installed gasket "Snap-its" into the most forward and rearward oil pan bolt holes (these are supplied with the gasket), then snapped the gasket into place (picture 7) and (picture 8).
3) Inserted the new oil pan from under the rear of the engine. (Here's the Trick) The front "snap-its" prevented the pan from moving fully forward into position. So with the pan as far forward as possible, I held it up with one hand and unscrewed the front �snap-its� with my other hand. The gasket fell into the pan. While still holding the pan up with one hand, I pulled it out and positioned it correctly on the pan with my free hand. I pushed the pan up and forward into its final installed position and REINSTALLED the snap-its, screwing them through the front oil pan holes. Thus the pan was now held in place, suspended by the snap-its
4) Installed the oil pan bolts.
5) Lowered the engine.
6) Installed the engine mount bolts.
7) Installed the wiper motor bolts and cowl screws
8) Installed the cooling fan.
9) Installed battery cable
10) Filled the engine oil.
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Intake manifold gasket may be leaking - check for loose bolts or replace fasket.
cracked head or a blwn head gasket
no different bolt pattern
$10.49 What about it?
1985-1988 ford f150 f250 and f350 or a 1994 f150 f250 and f350
The head gasket is about to blow.....Typical ford..
how to replace an oil pan that goes to a ford f150 1993? how much does the pan cost,and can you show a picture of it?
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The torque is 89 inch pounds or 7.41 foot pounds. You should never reuse a transmission gasket. If you are doing work on the transmission, replace the filter, it usually comes with a new gasket.
cost to replace a head gasket
There are a couple of a reasons why a 1994 Ford F150 truck will not start. The truck may have a dead battery or the spark plugs need to be replaced.
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Buy a Haynes Auto book...it will become your truck bible...head gasket on a 93 4.9l is a piece of cake as long as all the bolts come apart.
take out the bolts
I have the same problem. You can't seem to take it off from the outside. All I was told is that you have to unscrew it from the inside somehow.
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you just replace it