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There are two outer bolts that have to be removed. They actually fit through a bracket and screw into another bolt head on the inside of the bracket. Use a 13mm wrench on the outside and a 15mm to hold the inside while removing the outer bolts.

The assembly may be tight gripping the disc. Since the only way to get the caliper piston to retract is to screw it CLOCKWISE, do not try to pry the old pad away from the disc with any tool - it just won't work. Use a wooden block to tap the entire caliper housing away from the disc - it will come away eventually.

Remove the old pads. To retract the piston back into the caliper housing, you will need a specialised VW brake tool (a cube tool found at any local automotive parts store with small buttons at opposite corners) and a 3/8" socket wrench with a 6" extension.

If you screwed up, you may need three other items to retract the piston: 1. a piston retracting tool that braces the piston and simply forces it in as you turn the screw knob; 2. a thin, flat, smooth piece of metal like a putty knife; 3. an expandable vice-grip wrench.

If you look at the Piston head, you'll notice at least two specific shaped grooves on the outer edge opposite each other; find a matching pair of buttons on the cube tool that fits into the grooves for turning - somewhat like a screwdriver.

Since none of the buttons would fit my piston as the widest pair still did not fit flat, I had to use the one with four buttons and using a hacksaw, cut off one opposing pair of buttons. The remaining two fit perfectly.

Now the rest is simple. Using the cube tool and your socket wrench with extension, try to turn the piston back up into the caliper housing by TURNING CLOCKWISE while at the same time apply some pressure as you turn the wrench. This will under normal circumstances, gradually retract the piston. DO NOT TURN THE TOOL AND THEREFORE THE PISTON TO THE LEFT IN A COUNTER-CLOCKWISE MOTION OR YOU WILL HAVE TO GO TO THE NEXT STEP.

Insert the new pads and use the new bolts provided to reattach the caliper to the bracket. Use the new bolts as they have a locking compound between the threads.

If by some stroke of misfortune, you are now researching how to get the piston back in - after you happily decided to turn the piston COUNTER-CLOCKWISE in a vain attempt to get the piston back into the housing, here is what you should do:

Place the aforementioned piston retractor in the caliper and turn the knob until the pad almost touches the piston head. Place the putty knife between the piston head and retractor pad, turn the knob to tighten the tool "just so". (this is to maintain a firm pressure against the piston while at the same time trying to get it to move back in).

Use the expanding wrench to grip the outer metal of the piston TAKING CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE RUBBER BOOT then turn the piston clockwise a few 1/4-turns. Hopefully you will notice that the entire thing becomes loose and you will then have to tighten the retractor again by turning the knob JUST ENOUGH TO DRAW IT TIGHT AGAIN. Repeat this process a few times until you find that the piston has "caught" inside and has retracted a bit. You can now use the cube tool to completely turn it all the way in.

NOTE: the reason that I used the putty knife was because the expander pad bit into and jammed against the bare softer metal of the piston head. The putty knife created a smooth hard surface enabling the piston head to be easily turned with the wrench.

I thank the previous contributor who gave me the initial instruction on the use of the cube tool. I merely detailed it and explained how to fix the piston having popped out from turning counter clockwise.

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