First, loosen the clutch cable, and remove the wing nut all the way and pull the cable out of the way. Mark the outside of the arm in case you forget which way it goes back together. Look at the end of the shaft where the arm attaches. There is a small circlip (circular clip with 2 small holes). Spray it down with WD40 or equivalent and let it soak a few. Remove the circlip...you will need some circlip pliars specially designed to remove and install the clip. Then, the arm should slide out, off of the shaft. Some prying might be needed to get it started...just be careful not to force anything. The old, and probably broken, spring will come off now. Reassemble. The arm is splined so that it only goes on one way. Take a good look so that you see how the splines work and how to get it back together. Rememer which side is the outside? Hook the 'hook' part of the spring around the arm and slide the arm and spring back on the shaft. The spring is correct as long as the hook part of the spring wraps around and contacts the part of the arm closest to the front of the vehicle. As you start sliding the arm onto the shaft, you will see that the straight part of the spring end needs to be popped up onto the shelf near the front of the vehicle...giving it it's springing action. This can be a little tricky, but not too bad. Once you have the spring seated correctly, the arm will slide all the way back on. It is all the way in as long as the groove that the circlip fits into is visible. Finally, replace the circlip and readjust the clutch. Don't tighten the cluth too much, or it will ride your throughout bearing and wear your cluch prematurely. There should be just a tad of slop in the pedal before you feel the clutch start to engage. And last thing...be really careful if you are jacking up your vehicle and working under it. Always work on a flat and hard surface. Always use jack stands and block the front wheels. Have fun and be safe.
For the brake it's pretty obvious. You don't want the brake to stay on when you aren't braking, so you need the spring to push it back. For the clutch it's the same but in reverse. You want the clutch to stay on, except for when you're depressing the lever. The spring keeps the clutch on, until you use the lever to overcome the spring. Then when you release the lever the spring kicks in again, engaging the clutch.
The 1995 Escort clutch has a single dry plate diaphragm spring type clutch. The clutch plate has a splined hub which allows it to slide along the splines on the input shaft. The clutch and pressure plate are held in contact by spring pressure exerted by the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate. During shifting when the clutch pedal is depressed, which transmits hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to the release cylinder, pushing on the release lever so the throwout bearing pushes on the diaphragm spring fingers, disengaging the clutch.
I'm assuming you mean the pressure plate on the clutch. It is a time consuming job. The transmission has to come out. Then the clutch comes out. It is about a $600 job to get this done and also put in a new clutch disc. Unless you know your way around transmissions and drive shafts I would suggest having it done.
diaphragam clutch is small in size as compare to spring clutch and it transmits more torque as diaphragm exerts more force as copare to springs...... therefore it is advantageous to use diaphragm clutch intead of spring clutch... more compact means of storing energy. thus compact design results in smaller clutch housing......... less affected by centrifugal force..can withstand higher rotational speeds... diaphragm acts as both clamping spring and release levers..therefore many extra parts like struts, eye bolts, levers etc can be eliminated....
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