With a mutimeter test between each lead (usually yellow in color), the reading should be approximately one (1) ohm. or close.
nope....stator as in the alt? dont do it. this was a test before the computer days... you will surge/ zap the comp. or did you mean starter? either way the answer is no
check coils stator and all connections test procedure check coils stator and all connections test procedure
yes for continuity
An electric motor has a stator and a rotor. The stator does not move. The rotor rotates inside the stator.
With a mutimeter test between each lead (usually yellow in color), the reading should be approximately one (1) ohm. or close.
you need to test with ohm. meter... there are resitance test. and could also be output test using a volt meter. you will need a service manuel to get sepect.....for the corrct make ,model, and year,,,,... what is your problem that your having.....
you need to test with ohm. meter... there are resitance test. and could also be output test using a volt meter. you will need a service manuel to get sepect.....for the corrct make ,model, and year,,,,... what is your problem that your having.....
Looking for coil ohms and stator ohms. And possibly the voltage comming out of the stator .
you can't throw it away and buy a new one. one of the bad sides owning yamaha.
It's impotence and not power isn't it?
On a 1.25 A charging Stator it only has 2 poles. Now on a 3A charging Stator it has 4 poles for the charging. And both have 6 poles for Lighting Stator. So always remember that.
the easiest way to check if the stator is gone is by taking a volt meter (dc) hook to the battery it should show at least 12.7 volts fully charged. start bike with meter still hooked volts should go up when you give it throttle. up to about 14.5 max. if meter volts don't change your stator is shot if it jumps to around 18-19 volts your regulator is shot. this is the quick way to check your charging system To test your stator, unplug the regulator from the socket. With a meter set on AC above 100 volts, insert the probes into the stator socket. Start the bike. When you give the bike throttle you should see AC current about 16 to 20 volts per 1000 RPM. You should see about 32 to 40 volts @ 2000rpm. Anything below that, and your stator is faulty. To test for a bad regulator, unplug the regulator from the stator. With a test light, make sure you connect the ground well on the test light and touch each pin on the regulator. If the test light lights at all, your regulator is bad. If you test from the battery terminals, you are checking the whole system. With the meter switched to DC above 20 volts, apply the positive and negative probes to the positive and negative probes on the battery with the battery cables attached. Have a friend start the bike and slowly apply throttle. At idle you should have at least 13 volts. This output should increase as you rev the bike up to about 14.7 volts. It should never exceed 14.7 volts. If the voltage does not rise with throttle, your regulator or stator could be bad which is why you want to perform the test I listed, as listed. If the voltage rises above 14.7 volts the regulator is definitely at fault. The regulators on these bikes are notorious for going bad. The regulator and rectifier circuit are housed in the same unit.