cant its hydraulic if the clutch slips its time for a new 1
go under the car with a 14mm spanner and undo the adjustment nut, also undo the nut that passes thru the clutch lever (sticks out the side of the gearbox) Slide the end of the cable out of the fork, and then remove the 14mm locking nut that holds the sheath of the cable in postition. This completes the 'clutch' size of the cable. Then using a 10mm spanner remove the 2 bolts/nuts in the engine bay where the clutch cable run into the cabin. In the drivers footwell stick your hand up and unhook the hook on the end of the cable off the top of the clutch pedal. Install is reverse of removal but requires you to tighten the clutch cable by tightening the nut on the clutch end of the cable. (you will know when you see it)
No, the 1990 civic transmission is a cable operated clutch and the 1995 civic is a hydraulic operated clutch. So unless you rig up a hydraulic clutch system(Master cylinder, pedal, slave cylinder, lines...) it will not work. But a company called "Hasport" makes a bracket that has a cable attachment that operates the clutch engagement and disengagement.
# Remove the cover from under the facia panel # Release the nuts at the end of the cable at the release lever and disconnect the cable from the lever # Working from the inside of the car remove the clevis pin and disconnect the cable from the clutch pedal arm # Unscrew the two nuts which retain the cable grommet to the bulkhead and withdraw the cable from the car
If you have a reservoir for the clutch fluid , then it's HYDRAULIC. Some vehicles have hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinders, which require no periodic adjustment after initial installation. Other cable-operated systems have a self-adjusting mechanism built into the clutch pedal mechanism to eliminate the need for periodic adjustment. But the majority of cable-operated clutch systems do require periodic adjustment. It is easy to do and can be followed step by step with pictures in a CHILTON or Haynes manual. Hope this helps.
I don't know if Nissan is the same as Ford but on my Taurus you have to lift up on the clutch pedal with your foot until you hear it clicking; that's the clutch adjustment mechanism. Try that and see if it works. This guy means if you have a ratcheting adjustment type clutch. I had one on my 86' 5.0 mustang. There are 2 other possible problems... I had a new clutch did same thing, found out the cable had stretched and I had your exact same symptom. Changed the cable, worked fine. Of course if you have a hydraulic clutch like my 96' PU then you are looking at new clutch or slave cylinder.
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