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Go from the bulbs to fuse block or vice-versa. Except for a cut conductor there are really only 3 components that can go bad and all can be tested easy enough.

  1. Socket-bulb assembly: Pull the bulbs and check that they are not burned out. See if they will light when you put 12v across them. Clean the bases and apply a light coat of grease or vaseline. Clean out the sockets with a toothbrush or cloth. Put the transmission in reverse with the key turned to RUN and check the voltage at the socket. If you have voltage, you have fixed the problem.
  2. Reverse switch: If you're fat, this is hard to get to without jacking up the car. You'll find the switch on the left (driver) side of the transmission (usually). The cover unplugs to expose a round switch that, with some effort and contortion of your body, will unscrew. Put the leads of your volt meter in each hole of the cap and see if you have voltage...heck, take a piece of copper wire and jumper across the terminals and see if your lights come on. If you have voltage or if the lights come on when you jumper the terminals check the switch. There will be a round ball swaged into the end...this rides on a cam inside the transmission and closes the switch. Take this switch and carefully clamp it into a vice (don't crush it--yet). Clip the leads of your ohm-meter to the terminals and press on the ball. You should see a needle deflection. If you do, that doesn't necessarily mean anything because you may have pressed the ball in further than the cam would have. Now, since you already have it off, (go ahead and crush it with the vice and) lay out the $20 for a new one. Screw it in and put the socket back on.
  3. Check your fuse: Your lights should work now. If they don't, the fuse is blown or your wire is cut.

That is your basic trouble-shooting procedure...I'd skip all that and go right to replacing the switch. They seem to go bad about every 50K miles.

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Q: How do you troubleshoot the reverse lights on a 2001 Ford Mustang?
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