The line from the lube tank, under the right side of the seat, goes the the front right side of engine, under the front-most cover to the oil pump to the input connection. largest line. loosen up the bleeder screw until oil comes out, the smaller line runs to the right side of the carburetor on the right side at the throat of the carb. look to see if its been plugged. run the bike and open the throttle until oil comes out, on mine a 1990 model it took a minute or two to see the oil emerging from the feeder tube. that's it. mine was unhooked for who knows how long and started pumping pretty quickly. Good Luck...!
SAE 10W30 or yamalube 10w30
255 cc each fork
my old one that was in good shape..all stock..did like 55 60.idk if the sprockets were stock tho
The Blaster Engine is derived from the 1970s IT175/DT175. It is also used in the 1990s RT180.
as much as you want,
Try taking the air filter apart and spraying some starter fluid into the air filter. This will help turn over the cylinders. If that doesn't work, take aprart the cylinders and try to clean all of the junk off of the pistons. Use starting fluid as a last resort!!! Use a small amount of premix fuel to the cylinder, and fill the fuel tank with premix mixed 4 ounces to 1 gallon for extra break in lube. The new rings will need time to seat in the piston and cylinder. Give the bike long, slow kicks and then a few short fast kicks. As you notice less resistance you can kick harder. As you feel the bike begin to kick over as usual, change the plug, give it a little twist of fuel, and kick it like hell. After a few try, it will run. Give it short rides at lower rpms for a day or two, and after it cools each ride, check the tightness on all the cylinder and head bolts. After all this, and the few short runs adding up to atleast 4 hours, the rings and piston will be well enough seated to tear it up.