How to Replace clutch master cylinder f250 7.3 super duty diesel 2001?

Answer 1

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Fig. 1 Clutch master cylinder assembly-1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models

WARNING

Prior to any service on models with the externally mounted slave cylinder, that requires removal of the slave cylinder, such as transmission and/or clutch housing removal, the clutch master cylinder pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal. Failure to do this may damage the slave cylinder if the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave cylinder is disconnected.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal by prying the retainer bushing and pushrod off the pedal pin.
3. Detach the connector for the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch.
4. Remove the retaining nuts and the support bracket retaining the clutch master cylinder reservoir and reservoir to the bulkhead.
5. Thoroughly clean the area around the hydraulic tube and disconnect it from the master cylinder.
6. Remove the clutch master cylinder from the firewall carefully. It will be necessary to rotate the master cylinder 105 degrees counterclockwise to allow the CPP switch to clear the dash panel.

To install:

1. Install the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment. Make sure it is located on the correct side of the clutch pedal. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts.
2. Install the hydraulic tube to the master cylinder.
3. Attach the CPP switch connector.
4. Replace the retainer bushing in the clutch master cylinder pushrod if worn or damaged. Install the retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin. Make sure the flange of the bushing is against the pedal blade. Install the switch.
5. Connect the negative battery cable and bleed the clutch hydraulic system, if necessary.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Fig. 2 Remove the pushpins from the clutch master cylinder assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal by prying the retainer bushing and pushrod off the clutch pedal pin.
3. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, detach the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch electrical harness connector.
4. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, remove the CPP switch from the clutch master cylinder pushrod.
5. Remove 2 push pins retaining the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the cowl panel.
6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
7. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, disconnect the clutch hydraulic line from the transmission using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70552-A, or equivalent.
8. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, twist and unlock the slave cylinder from the transmission.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Rotate the clutch master cylinder 45 degrees clockwise and remove the clutch master cylinder and reservoir.

To install:

1. If replacing the clutch master cylinder, it must be bench bled before it is installed.
2. Install the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment. Place the clutch master cylinder in position and rotate the body 45 degrees counterclockwise while pushing inward.
3. Place the clutch master cylinder reservoir on the cowl panel and secure with 2 push pins.
4. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, connect the clutch hydraulic line to the transmission.
5. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, install the slave cylinder onto the transmission.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, install the CPP switch to the clutch pedal pushrod. Ensure that the CPP switch is properly positioned on the pushrod.
8. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, attach the CPP switch electrical harness connector.
9. Install the retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin with the flange portion of the bushing facing away from the pedal blade of the clutch pedal.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
11. Verify the starter motor will only crank the engine when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
12. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system and check for leaks.
13. Road test the vehicle and check the clutch system for proper operation.

BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE

It is recommended to bench bleed a dry clutch master cylinder before installation.

1. Start with the tube and reservoir attached to the clutch master cylinder, but the system removed from the vehicle. Lightly clamp the reservoir in a vise.
2. Hold the clutch master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body.
3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the clutch master cylinder and make sure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the clutch master cylinder.
4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve.
5. Stroke and fully depress and hold the push rod.
6. Release the internal mechanism of the quick end connector and release the push rod.
7. Fill the reservoir and repeat the above steps 4 more times.
8. With the clutch master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, push the push rod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air.

PS apply the o ring to the end of the tube before inserting into the cylinder,if you put it in the cylinder first sometimes it will go in off center,I know from experience. When replacing the master cylinder it is easy if you follow step in the guide,I would add that you remove the slave cylinder and leave the line connected,also release the clips that hold the line giving you more flexability and thus allowing you to pull the master cylinder out with the line attached which makes it much easier to hammer out the roll pin. Before you insert the push rod into the master cylinder I would suggest that you reassemble the switch that fits over the push rod ,then insert the push rod through the switch and then push it into the master cylinder,otherwise you may have to do as I did and that is drill a 1/16 hole midway on the bottom of the switch so I first could push back the switch and hold it with a 1/16 drill bit through the hole so I could reassemble the switch over the push rod and then release the switch by pulling out the bit.