You will probably need to use a puller. There should be threaded holes on either side of the center hole. It needs to be the H type of puller, not one that grabs around the outside rim. That kind will pull the pulley apart.
Turn counter clockwise about a quarter of a turn and it will pop right out. The wire is fastened to the bulb by a dual clip. Pull the clips back and detach the bulb from the wire.
Loosen the lugs slightly on the front passenger side of the car. raise the front passenger side of the car and remove the wheel. At the back of the wheel well are two pieces of plastic shrouding. They are held by one or two plastic pins. Using a screwdriver, pry out the center of the plastic pin, it should come all the way out. Then you can pry the outer sheath of the pin out of it's hole. The plastic shrouding can now be pulled out. Don't worry, there is not much to be damaged at this point. Now, make sure your car is stable. Scissor jacks do not mean stable. I admit I did it with a scissor jack, but I would recommend a good jack and a jack stand because you are gonna spend a bit of time under the brake rotor and if the car falls, you're most likely dead. Once the shrouding is removed you should be able to look up in there and see the alternator and the tensioner pulley. If you are confused as to which is which, there should be a diagram at the front of the engine compartment in front of the radiator that shows all of the pulleys and the routing of the serpentine belt. Now you need to remove the serpentine belt. Get a 14mm box end wrench and put it over the bolt on the tensioner pulley, the small pulley without tracks that is Slightly closer to the front of the car than the alternator. Tighten this bolt. This may seem counterintuitive if you have never done this before. But trust me. Rotate the bolt clockwise. This will release tension on the serpentine belt so you can pull the belt off of the alternator. After removing the belt, find two 13mm wrenches or ratchet attachments and remove the nut and bolt that hold the bottom of the alternator. Then remove the bolt at the top of the alternator. 13 or 14mm, I can't remember. Make sure you get the right one, it is just to the left of another more visible bolt that fastens the accessory above the alternator (can't remember what it is). After that bolt is removed you should be able to get back under the car and slide the alternator out of it's holding position. Now disconnect the alternator wires. This can be kinda trick as they are difficult to reach, and the main plug has a plastic latch holding it in place. Use an 8mm on the bolt holding the other wire. Now slide the alternator out through the wheel well. You may have to rotate it a bit to get it to come out of that hole. You're done. Go have kragen or some auto shop test it to make sure it's bad, and when you buy a new one, make them test that one too. It will save you so much time trying to figure out why your car is still not working right. Reverse the procedure to put the new one back in.
It is important to know what kind of finances will be needed when fixing a car. A New starter for this car can cost between $60 and $90, depending on the store, and brand.
It's an original score... You can't get it. Sorry
okbye
If you have the Infinity Stereo system in it you have to buy both the wiring harness and also another part for your speakers to plug into, it has a round end (female) with 4 rca plugs on other end you put the rca plugs in back of stereo in audio out and hook up only the red yellow blue and black wires out of the wire harness dont worry about the rest of them they are not needed unless you dont have an infinity stereo then you only need the wire harness and you just hook up the red yellow blue and black then hook the speakers up to each other and your good to go. Make sure the black wire is grounded to a non painted metal surface.
LANCER wheel bearings Replacement.
Lancer 2000 model, changing front wheel bearings. It is a cvt. Remove tires. Remove 2 pcs 17mm nuts holding the brake calipers and hang the caliper assembly with a wire or tie wrap (to prevent tension on brake hose). Remove 12mm nut holding the abs sensor and carefully pry the sensor out (perfect time to clean the sensor with brake cleaner during reassembly). Remove tie rod end bolt and pry lose the tie rod (perfect time to check tie rods for looseness, change it but mark the thread for reassembly). Remove ball joint nut and macpherson strut nuts.
Finally- pull out the whole wheel assembly and bring it to a press shop and instruct to change bearings. Only a heavy duty press machine can remove it. Your puller will break.
The age of the car makes it almost impossible for a home mechanic to remove the wheel bearing due to excessive rust buildup. Excessive pounding and hammering will only worsen the situation.
Underneath the plastic cover that has MIVEC written on it.
orange is cold, green is colder
left side you should have enough room to get your hand in there right side he have to remove throttle assembly and bracket that gives you just enough room to get it out
same way you bleed the brakes. push clutch all the way to the floor and release the bleed valve on the transmission. tighten it up, release the clutch. Need 2 people to do it.
Was told to check the ac cluch relay ( 4 dollar part ) or the low refrigerant sensor ( may be defective if have plenty of refrigerant. ) or ac clutch . My wifes car will work great, then stop cooling and usually will not come back on but if does, again, works great. not sure but think compressor stops....
60,000 miles is suggested by the dealership or your local mechanic. im about to drop my car off next week to get this service done i also suggest doing your water pump because it is behind the timing belt and cost you double if you wait till it goes bad shop around its not cheap approx $550 to $600. mind you i bought my car with 15,000 miles and it currently has 146,000 and it hasn't broke yet but can cause serious internal damage and about a $1700 repair good luck !
it takes ayc (Active Yaw Control) oil from Mitsubishi approx €50 a ltr
Its your coil packs, they become defective after time, it causes a sputtering and loss of compression. Also check the intkae manifold. the throttle body control will regulate fuel to stop sputtering set idle for around 900rpms
The 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer-Evolution has a 2.0 L base engine size.
Take the bolt to a machine shop and they can tell you . if you dont have it most metric auto bolts have a 125 thread pitch but i dont know the diameter.
Try http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto for free downloads of Honda Service Manuals and Diagrams.
How to keep SRS light off:
In my case it was the battery: Battery was old. Take it to the car shop and have it tested under a load. Indicator might show blue = good battery but it still might be bad. Changed my battery out, reset the SRS light using the jumper wire method seen on the web and this fixed the problem. SRS light came on due to irregular voltage from bad battery. It was time to change out the battery anyways. Noticed map lights and headlight flickering during idle = bad battery or alternator. SRS light is still off on my car.
Tank Capacity: 59 Liters
City: 8L/100km
Hwy: 5.9L/100km