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This is not an interference type engine.

If you moved a cam shaft independently of the crankshaft, you will need to do all these procedures:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the notch on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).

2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without too much compression resistance.

3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully being lined up with the mark on the engine head. You may have to turn the camshaft 9 turns. But when it lines up it will be obvious.

4. Turn the driver's side camshaft clockwise until it "jumps" into place but is 90 degrees before (at the 9 O'Clock when you consider the timing mark is at the 12 O'clock position) the timing mark being lined up. Then gently move the camshaft until the marks line up.

5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.

6. Line up the crankshaft notch with the mark that is at 3 O'clock. Place the new belt on the camshafts first, lining up the belt timing line with the marks on the pully and head. Place a clamp on the belt over the cam sprocket to keep them from moving. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. Now you can wind the belt around the pullys and align the line on the belt with the timing mark on the crankshaft at the 270 degree point (opposite of the notch and factory mark at 3 O'clock). There should be a factory blue dot on the crankshaft where the belt dots should line up. Do not worry about lining up the crankshaft marks at the 3 o'clock position as they will be a notch off if the blue lines are lined up on the opposite side.

7. Insure that you have looped the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the water pump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.

8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or Allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.

9. If all lines are aligned and the play is removed from the driver's side then this step should be easy. Hold the tensioner pully against the belt and install the tensioner adjuster. Then pull the dril bit or Allen wrench to release the adjuster. Sometimes this step can be a bit tricky and you may need some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it will take the play out of the belts and it the marks line up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge. Remove the drill bit or Allen wrench.

10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other then repeat the adjustment procedure. Although this isn't supposed to be an interference engine, it is always a good idea to do this step just as a matter of habit.

11. If everything seems OK you can try turning the engine over with the ignition. If it doesn't start, don't keep trying. Assume you need to perform the steps again and realign everything.

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