Small size home breakers have a fixed setting and can not be adjusted. Three phase moulded case breakers have adjustable trip settings on the load side of the breaker. These overloads can be set for motor inrush to stop the breaker from needless tripping and yet still protect the other equipment down stream from the breaker.
A manual circuit breaker must be reset by hand, as opposed to an automatic circuit breaker, that may be able to reset itself once it cools down.
A circuit breaker is an overcurrent protection device. As well as being able to open and close a circuit supplying its rated load, a circuit breaker must also be capable of interrupting and closing onto an overcurrent, including a short-circuit fault, without damaging itself.
Hard to define... A four year old child has the strength to physically "make" a typical household circuit breaker, while a teen would be able to "make" a typical industrial circuit breaker. (The latter breaker being physically much larger than the former.) Circuit breakers have their "breaking capacity" rated in AMPS. A typical household breaker is rated at 20, 30 or 50 Amps. Industrial breakers might be rated at 500 amps or a thousand or even more. Hope this helps but if it didn't answer your question, please rephrase it and ask again.
Because it needs to be able to cut the power to the load. That's why circuit breakers are always the first piece of equipment in a circuit after the power supply.
A circuit breaker is the only reusable circuit protector in that list. A fuse is also circuit protection, but it is not reusable. A length of wire can work like a fuse in some applications, such as feeding transformers on poles, but the wire would have to be small enough of a gauge to be able to burn out when overloaded. However, the wire would need replaced after an overload. A three prong outlet is for protecting humans, not circuits. The ground wire is for providing a low impedance fault current path back to the breaker to trip the faulted circuit's breaker (or fuse). The opening of the circuit will prevent a possible fire. However, a three prong outlet doesn't actually provide the protection of tripping the circuit.
Most times it is the surge current the breaker can withstand in kilo-amps. A normal breaker will see several thousand amps in a short condition. The breaker must be able to withstand and break that current safely.
Manually turning off a shunt trip breaker should not set off the fire alarm. The only way that the breaker could set off the fire alarm when turned to the off position is if there is an auxiliary contact on the breaker connected to the fire alarm circuit. This is not usually done because the breaker should be able to be turned off when doing maintenance on the breakers circuit. If the breaker is a mandatory feed breaker to a piece of fire alarm equipment and shouldn't be left in the off position it might have a trouble circuit connected to the fire alarm panel. A trouble alarm on a fire alarm panel is different from an alarm circuit alarm.
A 225 amp load will physically not be able to tie into a 15 amp breaker and a duplex receptacle as you can not get a 3/0 wire under the breaker and receptacle terminal screws.
The GFCI is sensing stray electricity. Usually, there is no GFCI connected to the pump motor. The GFCI devices would be associated with the air blower, or the lights. If it is the circuit breaker, then there may be a problem with the circulation pump or the circuit breaker itself. A qualified electrician will be able to locate and correct the electrical problem. A pool repair tech may be able to do the same and also correct the problem if it is the motor. Ken
Probably not. If the appliance has multiple heating levels then you might get away with it. In this scenario you would only be able to use 30 amps of the appliance's 40 amp capacity before the breaker would trip.
You will have to find the short in the wiring affecting the particular circuit. For example if you have a short on the A/c fuse, you would want to start from the compressor clutch and work toward the fuse box. You might be able to get away with putting a circuit breaker in the circuit with the bad fuse, but that is not the best way to repair the truck
You probably popped the breaker. The appliance is drawing too much current for that circuit (or is combined with too many other appliances on that circuit). Unplug it, turn the breaker back on. Try to find a different circuit to operate it on, or move other appliances to other circuits to reduce the load. If you own your residence you might be able to hire an electrician to completely rewire that circuit with larger capacity wire and breaker and changing the outlets also. This will get expensive though. I cannot use my microwave cooker and my stand mixer at the same time, together they will trip the breaker for the kitchen outlets, but one at a time is OK. It might also be an earth fault in the appliance - As stated turn off other appliances on the same circuit (that should cancel out any over load) and test again . If the breaker drops then the appliance is the issue