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You need one of those fancy-smancy star-shaped screwdrivers (and a stubby, at that) to remove the 4 screws ... two at the bottom of the plastic housing in which the switches are mounted, and two more are revealed whenever you pry off the plastic trim that surrounds the rheostats at each end of the switch panel (yep, they just pry right off with your fingers ... pull TOWARD you). Once you have the 4 retaining screws extracted, you can pry the whole switch panel downward at the back, and free up a lip on the upper front edge, dropping the whole thing downward so you can access the wiring harnesses and back-sides of the switches. Pry off the wiring connector from the back of the unit (there's a plastic keeper, but just wiggle the plug & pull sternly and it'll come right off without breaking anything). Then push down on a retainer at the top front of the switch unit and shove it forward and slide it out of the switch panel. This is the cheapest crappiest constructed switch I have ever seen on a German engineered automobile (maybe it's made in Mexico?). The trouble with mine was the burnt-up contact points of the relay. You hafta remove the activator button (the iconized cap) off the front of the switch in order to get the case off (it slides right off if you pry up the edges with a knife tip to free the latches) to get inside for surgery. Doing some micro-surgery to clean the single relay contacts and bend them (with a very fine needle nosed pliers) slightly so that they once again touched when the coil was activated, solved my problem.

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Q: I have a 2002 beetle and the turn light signals are not staying on what do you do?
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