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Check your brake power booster
If the rear brakes are drum brakes, then there could be a leaky wheel cylinder. The wetness inside the drum will cover all the brake shoes and parts and cause the wheel to lock up when applied. The build of pressure could be due to the wheel cylinder leaking and causing a pressure loss, but rising when the brakes are applied or pumped up. This may/may not be your case, but definitely worth checking the rears.
-choke the wheels, release the parking brakes. when you have enough air pressure to do it, and shut the engine off. -step on/off the brake pedal to reduce to airtank pressure -the parking knob should pop out when the air pressure falls to the manufacturers specification (usually 20-40 psi) THIS CAUSES THE SPRING BRAKES TO COM ON. To check for emergency operation of spring brake on straight truck: Release park brake. Build air pressure to 100 psi. & shut engine off. Drain primary air tank & step on brake foot pedal. You should hear air exhaust from brake chambers & rear brakes should apply. This will give you controlled spring brake application if you loose primary air pressure.
The brakes will remain on, air pressure is required to release the brakes
Truck has hydro-static brake assit. What this means is the power brake assit runs off the power steering pump.It takes a few seconds to build up pressure.
Build up air, chock the wheels, release the brakes, and hammer on the brake drums.
Drum brake? Could indicate a build up of excessive dust in drums -remove drum and clean Disc brake? wear indicators are letting you know it is time for replacement pads. Could also be a sign of cracked or glazed brake pads/shoes. Have your brakes inspected soon.
Try to pump it to build up the pressure.
my brakes squeek do i need new brakes??? More than likely it's just a build up of brake dust causing the squealing best advise I can offer is to have the brakes checked & cleaned As long as the brakes are not grinding you should be OK for a little while
Start the car, place you foot on the brake and push and hold it. If the brake pedal very slowly sinks toward the floor, the master cylinder is bad. Of course a leak at the master cylinder means it is bad. Don't ignore any of these 2 symptoms as it can stop working at any moment, and leave you with no brakes. When looking at the master cylinder look at the wall or booster that the master is bolted to. If u see sweating, or paint pielling at the mating the master is leaking from the seals.
same as a car, take the caliper off, and leave bleeder to the top, build pressure, hold, open bleeder, repeat.
Very common, as long as the brake pedal comes back up after the engine is started its good. It takes a second for the brake booster to build up pressure.