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The word and the formal contemporary description is French, but olive spreads have been common for thousands of years in Italy/ancient Rome. About 400AD, Marcus Gavius Apicius wrote in De re coquinaria ("On the Subject of Cooking") about an olive spread mixed with "Garum" fish paste/sauce that is very close to the contemporary definition which calls for olives capers and anchovies.

Probably the oldest known tapenade recipe (Olivarum Conditurae) appears in Columella's De re rustica written in the 1st Century AD.

Olivarum Conditurae (from Columella's de Re Rustica) Olivarum Conditurae: Acerbam pauseam mense Septembri vel Octobri, dum adhuc vindemia est, contundere; et aqua calida paululum maceratam exprime faeniculique seminibus et lentisci cum cocto sale modice permixta reconde in fideliam et mustum quam recentissimum infunde; tum fasciculum viridis faeniculi superpositum merge, ut olivae premantur et ius superemineat. Sic curata oliva tertio die possis uti. Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella (4 CE to circa 70CE) was a Roman writer on agriculture, who after a career in the army (as a tribune in Syria c. 35CE) took-up farming. He is best known for his twelve-volume de Re Rustica (On Argiculutre) which has been completely preserved. Translation Yet most people finely chop leeks, rue and mint, together with young celery, and mix these with crushed olives. Then add a little peppered vinegar and a little more honey or honeyed wine, drizzle with green olive oil and so cover with a bunch of green celery. Modern Redaction Ingredients: 1 leek Sprig of rue 3 mint leaves 2 sticks celery 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp honey 60ml olive oil 150g whole green olives 4 cloves garlic Pepper Olivarum Conditurae Preparation: Method: Trim wash and finely slice the leek and parboil for five minutes. Roughly chop the herbs and place in a blender along with the leek and the liquid ingredients. Blend into a smooth paste. Tip the paste from the blender into a bowl. Stone the olives and chop finely, adding to the bowl. Crush the garlic with the flat of a knife and chop finely, adding this to the bowl as well. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Keep in the fridge until needed.

Read more at Celtnet: http://www.celtnet.org.uk/recipes/roman/fetch-recipe.php?rid=roman-olive-celery-tapeande

Copyright © celtnet

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Q: Is olive tapenade a French or an Italian dish?
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