Yes Mine Has that to it's a 95.
Test it with a vacuum gauge.
The distributor is off a tooth or two. You can pull the distributor out and turn the rotor a little and put it back in. Then re-time the engine.
It hooks to a vacuum port on the intake manifold behind the carb.
Ist is a simple process. Simply remove the vacuum line to the advance mechanism, then remove the bolt that hold it down to the block. (Just to the left) Then lift the distributor from the engine. (Carefully allow the distributor to rotate a bit as you pull straight out.)
The vacuum pump stops the sound waves from coming out. Because there are no particles to pass on the sound in a vacuum, we see the clock vibrating, but do not hear anything at all.
fords suck and nobody cares.
There should be a vacuum port about halfway up the primary metering block on the passenger side.
No. The vaccum block will stay the same for as long as you play the game
Block off the vacuum line to the distributor and put a timing light on it. Rotate the distributor to about 8 degrees BTDC at idle (750 rpm) and clamp it down tight. Reconnect the vacuum line and you should be good to go. You could experiment by increasing the advance in two degree increments until performance suffers and then back off 1 degree. You would rarely benefit from going beyond 14 degrees BTDC.
that must be some metro to have a big block
just the top one that is the vacum advance, timing should be 2 degrees BTDC with vacum advance line removed and blocke
cam timing will not change ignition timing i would try 8 or 10 degees advance at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected.
You usually need a constant source from the intake manifold to the power brake booster, and a spark-ported source from the carb to the distributor. There could be other emission-related lines as well, depending on the year.
where can i find a vaccum diagram for a 1985 Chevy truck with a 350 small block
The lvl select door is vacuum operated. I'm not sure where the vacuum block is located on this year, but if u look in a manual it will help. You should see the vacuum lines under the hood on the firewall. There is a black housing that they connect into. Replacing that housing should fix the problem unless you have a cracked Vacuum line. You can get a cheapy T shaped line at most parts stores.
Back of the block, next to the distributor.Back of the block, next to the distributor.
You will have to install an aftermarket Vacuum canaster. You can by them at a high performance shop.
You should have a vacuum plate to cover them both. if you have not just take the basket out of one of them and block of the hole with something that cant get sucked down into it. Doing this will strengthen the suction on the other side and make vacuuming better.
go to google or yahoo and do a search for "vacuum line routing edelbrock"..... it should give you alot of pages. choose the one from edelbrock.
Not too often as it tends to block up filters unles you vacuum to waste.
That doesn't sound right. Maybe try a different gage.
Actually the complete distributor will fit from the small block to the big block.
hook up a timing light to cylinder 1 spark plug wire. disconnect vacuum advance hose on distributor. loosen distributor hold down bolt slightly. start engine. point timing light at the balancer/pulley on the front of the engine. the flashing will make it look like the line marked on it is standing still. turn the distributor slightly until you line up the mark with the correct notches on the timing indicator on the block. tighten distributor hold down. hook up vacuum advance. when you plug the vacuum advance back in you can watch the timing advance with the light to verify that it is working. remove the timing light.The above answer is correct for distributor equipped cars with balancer timing marks using cylinder #1 refrence. This virtually all early north American built cars.All other cars have very different procedure's. Any request for this info must have year make and model to get a correct answer
there is a fitting behind the carb in front of the distributor that has a piece of rubber hose between 2-6 inches long it goes to a steel line that goes to the vacuum modulator on your tranny hope this helps oh yeah the modulator is on the passenger side towards the back small tubulkar thing sticking out with a nipple on it
Its under the EGR on the block ya. follow a hose from egr to vsv from underside of car