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Answered 2007-05-09 00:58:22

Sounds to me like a partially clogged in line fuel filter or a weak fuel pump. Check your fuel pressure with a gauge up by the intake. Any shop can do this for you at little or no charge if you do not have the tools needed. Crank/cam or ignition modules most of the times either work all the time or don't work at all.

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we had the same problem. we changed the Crankshaft Position sensor, and also the camshaft position sensor. changed ignition coils, and the module under the ignition coil, and still had the stalling problem. an auto mechanic bought it from us and he discovered all that it was was a pinched wire under the ignition module.


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check the wiring goig to the crank sensors and check and see if you can adjust the gap on the outside sensor maybe its not properly connected

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there is not a ignition module on these like earlier fords, no distributor-cam and crank sensors deliver information to the ECU and it determines spark by the feedback from these sensors. the ECU is located directly above the drivers feet, behind the panel.

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Usally on the rear manifold rear top of engine. You should be able to see the sensor wire from the brain box going out to it.

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Have the system checked for codes. That will lead you to the problem.

There is a problem on the engine or transmission. One of the sensors sends a code to the computer and this code is store into the memory. You can use this information to fix the problem To find the errror you have to turn the ignition on and off 3 times. Chrysler calls this key dance ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. The code with the problem will be display on the cluster. Write it down and check the code.

Start by checking the ignition components & sensors. Common issues, coils, modules, crank & cam sensors. Start by checking the basics first,eg wires plugs etc...

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hi i had same problem with my car after reading every1s answers about changing coil packs and sensors and still having same problem i managed to get a schematic for my car it turn out to be the amplifier/ignition module under coli pack hope this helps .... Craig honeyball

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Obviously your starter is NOT the problem. I also assume it starts fine when cold? I'd ask a few more questions to help diagnose the problem but here are a few places to begin.Newer vehicles with electronic ignition have what is called a "start sequence." You need to find out where in the start sequence something isn't working when the vehicle is hot. Number one, pull the computer codes. If the vehicle is drivable, AutoZone can do it for you for free. Buy a Haynes Repair Manual when you are there. I found one to be very helpful in a similar situation with a different vehicle.There is a relay called the "ASD" or automatic shut-down relay that is designed to shut off fuel, spark, etc. in the event of a roll-over. If the relay is bad, the vehicle will not start. I'm not sure if it will crank or not in this circumstance. Sometimes relays and sensors only have problems when hot.If the vehicle runs when cold then quits after getting warm/hot, that can be one problem.If the vehicle runs until you shut it off then will not restart until good and cold, it is likely one of the electronic ignition sensors. A few of the sensors are: coolant temp., crank position, and cam position sensors. If it isn't one of those sensors, it may be your ignition coil.I hope something here helps.Good luck.Len

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