The front calipers have metric bolt heads, however the rear has Torx holding the caliper together and metric bolt head holding the caliper to the axle. The front was relatively easy given a socket wrench with the right lengthed handle or breaker bar that fits into the area you are working (hint: loosen the bolt holding the caliper together first in order to use the leverage of the vehicle to break it loose, then go after the bolt holding the caliper to the spindle). Have an upside down bucket ready to place the caliper without damaging the brake line. Remove the old pads and compress the 2 cylinders with a large C-clamp and block of wood. Insert new pads and rethread bolts to hold the caliper together. Put new rotor in place. Remount calipers on spindle. The rear is another story. Barely any clearance between the Torx head and the spring pack, and a little more space, but not enought to fit a socket wrench between the metric bolt head and the spring pack. I didn't even try to remove the Torx while the caliper was still mounted on the axle, so I went for the metric head bolt to remove the caliper from the axle. I had to use a box end wrench (use the closed side or you will likely round over the bolt head) and an appropriate sized breaker bar (wear gloves because there is not much clearance and you will bust up your hands). Using the boxed end wrench definity took longer to get the bolts loose (they fight you all the way), as you have to keep removing and placing it back on the head, but it works (make sure you have an 18MM boxed end wrench). The downside in removing the caliper from the axle is that the Torx has proven impossible to remove with the caliper removed from the axle. The more it is fiddled with while the brake line is attached, the more chance to tear the break line or strip the Torx. Remove the brake line and place a securely rubberbanded baggy to it in order to catch the leakage. This will allow for the caliper to be taken to a place where it can be secured enough to take the Torx bolts out without damaging them (make sure you have a T55 Torx socket...sold by itself in Sears hardware automotive section...bobo brand). Bolt the caliper back together with pads installed before remounting to the axle. Put new rotor in place. The downside in removing the brake line is that I will have to hook it back up. Remount caliper on axle. bleed the lines to ensure no air bubbles, and recheck the fluid level in the reservoir. Have fun!!!
The biggest part of replacing calipers is bleeding the system after the calipers are replaced. I just pinch off the hoses nearest to the calipers with vice grips to minimize fluid lost. Then replace the caliper assy. After reinstalling the brake hoses, you may need to bleed the brakes, but sometimes you can get away with not doing it if you have a good brake pedal. If not, then bleed the calipers starting with the furthest one from the master cylinder. Some cars can be bled either with the car on or off, depending. If it doesn't want to bleed well with the car off, then bleeding with the car running might be necessary. You will need two of you or a hand held vacuum pump.
If you are doing it yourself, the best pricing I've found for parts is at www.rockauto.com - you can buy semi-loaded or fully-loaded (with pads) calipers there. Installation is quite simple but you'll probably have to get the rotors (discs) resurfaced too, which would mean removing them and taking them to a brake shop. If the rotors are under sized (too badly worn) you will have to replace them. You can also buy replacement rotors at the same place as the calipers. Doing it yourself, call around to different auto parts stores to get prices. A repair shop that specializes in brake repair will charge anywhere from about $500.00 to $900.00. The trouble here is finding a shop that you can trust.
There is no valve inside. It purely restricts flow to the front so that the more efficient front brakes are not doing all of the braking. You will only find these on disc/drum combinations. If you are experiencing a brake pull, you need to replace either the front brake hoses or one of the calipers. If the brake warning light switch is leaking, the proportioning valve will have to be replaced.
open the bleeder valve on the brake calipers and press the brake pedals you need 2 people for this job or you can go to your local auto parts store and buy a brake bleeder kit for a couple of bucks and you can do it yourself but i highly recommend that if you don't know what you are doing especally with a vechiles brakes i'd advise you to take it to your mechanic or local tire and lube shop and get them to do it. don't mess around with your safety . :)
i thought it was going to be difficult too but it is really quite simple, its exactly the same as doing front pads you dont need to worry about the hand brake at all. There is two bolts that hold the brake calipers in place, undo those pry the pads back to get some clearance and slot the new pads in and bolt back up.
If the car hasn't been used for a long period of time calipers usually lock up.Try to remove the calipers and remove the cylinder,to remove the water within the cylinders.It would be best if you could remove the old brake fluid and replace it with new one.it would take time doing this but it's the best solution to your problem.
your car should be in park. you should also have a wheel chock in case the car decides to move when it is being jacked up and always use jack stands to support the car/truck etc do not leave car upon a hydralic or any other type jack. if you are doing the rear brakes then you would want to have the emergency brake off so you can remove the rotors or drums.some calipers on the rear need to have the pistion screwed back in all the way so you can get the new brake pads and calipers back onto the rotor and after assembly will require you to pull the hand brake or emergency brake a few times to unsure the rear pads are touching the rotors.pump the brake pedal with car off after any brake job to ensure you have brakes and a good brake pedal before you go for a ride. failure to do this might give you a scary ride if the brakes are not pumped up.
First question is: Why do you think it needs adjusting? These cars are fitted with self adjusting rear calipers. Most likely scenario is that the rear pads are stuck in the calipers and both rear calipers need stripping and cleaning. Next likely scenario is to be found whilst cleaning the brakes is that one or both handbrake cables are stiff or seized. MY space star had one rear cable rubber boot displaced during a previous pad change, this allowed water into the rear end and caused the cable to seize partly "on". My advice is; if you know what you are doing and can service the brakes, carry out the brake service and most of your problems will be identified. If you are unsure, get professional help.
If, as you say, it needs doing then it should be done as soon as possible. Brake fluid seldom needs changing though it does degenerate over time, mainly by absorbing moisture. The precise detail will be in your manual. The fluid reservoir needs checking topping up occasionally and certainly will require it after a brake pad change.
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