The front calipers have metric bolt heads, however the rear has Torx holding the caliper together and metric bolt head holding the caliper to the axle. The front was relatively easy given a socket wrench with the right lengthed handle or breaker bar that fits into the area you are working (hint: loosen the bolt holding the caliper together first in order to use the leverage of the vehicle to break it loose, then go after the bolt holding the caliper to the spindle). Have an upside down bucket ready to place the caliper without damaging the brake line. Remove the old pads and compress the 2 cylinders with a large C-clamp and block of wood. Insert new pads and rethread bolts to hold the caliper together. Put new rotor in place. Remount calipers on spindle. The rear is another story. Barely any clearance between the Torx head and the spring pack, and a little more space, but not enought to fit a socket wrench between the metric bolt head and the spring pack. I didn't even try to remove the Torx while the caliper was still mounted on the axle, so I went for the metric head bolt to remove the caliper from the axle. I had to use a box end wrench (use the closed side or you will likely round over the bolt head) and an appropriate sized breaker bar (wear gloves because there is not much clearance and you will bust up your hands). Using the boxed end wrench definity took longer to get the bolts loose (they fight you all the way), as you have to keep removing and placing it back on the head, but it works (make sure you have an 18MM boxed end wrench). The downside in removing the caliper from the axle is that the Torx has proven impossible to remove with the caliper removed from the axle. The more it is fiddled with while the brake line is attached, the more chance to tear the break line or strip the Torx. Remove the brake line and place a securely rubberbanded baggy to it in order to catch the leakage. This will allow for the caliper to be taken to a place where it can be secured enough to take the Torx bolts out without damaging them (make sure you have a T55 Torx socket...sold by itself in Sears hardware automotive section...bobo brand). Bolt the caliper back together with pads installed before remounting to the axle. Put new rotor in place. The downside in removing the brake line is that I will have to hook it back up. Remount caliper on axle. bleed the lines to ensure no air bubbles, and recheck the fluid level in the reservoir. Have fun!!!
2 Bolts on the back. Remove them and remove the Brake line, and Install new doing the inverse
You will have to remove the transmission 1st. After doing that then just unbolt the flywheel and replace it.
The biggest part of replacing calipers is bleeding the system after the calipers are replaced. I just pinch off the hoses nearest to the calipers with vice grips to minimize fluid lost. Then replace the caliper assy. After reinstalling the brake hoses, you may need to bleed the brakes, but sometimes you can get away with not doing it if you have a good brake pedal. If not, then bleed the calipers starting with the furthest one from the master cylinder. Some cars can be bled either with the car on or off, depending. If it doesn't want to bleed well with the car off, then bleeding with the car running might be necessary. You will need two of you or a hand held vacuum pump.
You take it to a mechanic that knows what he/she is doing.
Its actually a torex head you need... not sure of size yet. Its a T-50 Torex.
Here is a link on how to change the brake fluid: http://www.ehow.com/how_5132854_change-brake-oil.html. You are the best judge of whether you have the required skills. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, take your car to a professional.
If you are doing it yourself, the best pricing I've found for parts is at www.rockauto.com - you can buy semi-loaded or fully-loaded (with pads) calipers there. Installation is quite simple but you'll probably have to get the rotors (discs) resurfaced too, which would mean removing them and taking them to a brake shop. If the rotors are under sized (too badly worn) you will have to replace them. You can also buy replacement rotors at the same place as the calipers. Doing it yourself, call around to different auto parts stores to get prices. A repair shop that specializes in brake repair will charge anywhere from about $500.00 to $900.00. The trouble here is finding a shop that you can trust.
Unless you have been officially taught how to do that, you should not be doing it.
Brake rotors are suppose to be easy to change out if your a mechanic and know how to use tools. It is also a good idea to leave it to a professional if your not very familiar with what you are doing.
Unless you have been officially taught how to do that, you should not be doing it.
open the bleeder valve on the brake calipers and press the brake pedals you need 2 people for this job or you can go to your local auto parts store and buy a brake bleeder kit for a couple of bucks and you can do it yourself but i highly recommend that if you don't know what you are doing especally with a vechiles brakes i'd advise you to take it to your mechanic or local tire and lube shop and get them to do it. don't mess around with your safety . :)
There is no valve inside. It purely restricts flow to the front so that the more efficient front brakes are not doing all of the braking. You will only find these on disc/drum combinations. If you are experiencing a brake pull, you need to replace either the front brake hoses or one of the calipers. If the brake warning light switch is leaking, the proportioning valve will have to be replaced.