Probably best to take it back apart, clean everything and try again.
I agree with the take it apart and clean it advice. A small piece of grit under a bearing can cause problems.
However... I'd either plastigauge the bearings or even better:
# Remove the crankshaft. # remove and clean all bearings and put them back in place, making sure that you install the thrust bearing at the right place. # Use a good quality assembly lube on each bearing contact surface. # Clean the crankshaft and lay it into the engine block. # Make sure the crankshaft turns freely. # Install ONE main bearing cap. (naturally, match the bearing cap to it's original home. Most are numbered or otherwise identified) # After the cap is torqued, make sure you can still freelyturn the crankshaft. There should be no resistance other than what is naturally occurring from the assembly lube. It should turn evenly. # Install the next cap following the same directions and verifying that the crankshaft still turns freely. Keep installing one cap at a time until all main bearing caps are torqued and the crankshaft is still turning freely. If you encounter ANY resistance at this stage, the block must be align bored. # Next, install the rod bearings. If the pistons are out of the block, I'd test them by installing them to the crankshaft from the bottom first, just to make sure they're turning freely, then remove them and install the piston properly. Of course, make sure the rod cap is the same one that was originally taken off. Rod caps are matched to the rods when they're manufactured. If you don't put them back right they'll bind.
# If any rod bearing does not turn freely on the crankshaft, you'll need to take them ALL to a machine shop and have the rods reconditioned. Sometimes a rod "big end" can pound out of round by a couple thousandths, messing up the fit.
Ideally, you want the spindle nut to hold the bearing pack together. Too tight and your bearings wear faster. WAY too tight and the bearings crush. Too loose and the bearings chatter. WAY too loose and the wheel wobbles.
Sure
Hand tight
Reds they are proven by Ryan s heckler also I have reds they're for loose riders spitfires r more of tight
sealed non greasable bearings would be around 65 ft lbs greaseable bearings are just snug up tight w/channel locks then back off slightly to where the nearest cotter pin hole is to allow for heat and expansion of the bearing assembly
The crankshaft sensor is located on the side of the block below the exhaust manifold on the firewall side of the engine. It is held in by a single bolt. Access is quite tight but it can be replaced with the engine in the car.
Double check the battery connections, be sure they are clean and tight. Be sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged (12.68 V). Be sure the connections at the starter are clean and tight. Be sure the negative battery cable connection at the engine is clean and tight. Be sure the vehicle is in park or neutral. If all this checks out okay, the starter may be at fault.
Excessive wear on water pump, alternator, power steering pump bearings
You have to do some specific exercizes. The related link below will lead you to several different suggestions.
how tight should we tight the head gasket bolt for a ford f150 Need to know the engine size.
145-200 ft lbs
Its a problem with your bearings..