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Probably best to take it back apart, clean everything and try again.

I agree with the take it apart and clean it advice. A small piece of grit under a bearing can cause problems.

However... I'd either plastigauge the bearings or even better:

# Remove the crankshaft. # remove and clean all bearings and put them back in place, making sure that you install the thrust bearing at the right place. # Use a good quality assembly lube on each bearing contact surface. # Clean the crankshaft and lay it into the engine block. # Make sure the crankshaft turns freely. # Install ONE main bearing cap. (naturally, match the bearing cap to it's original home. Most are numbered or otherwise identified) # After the cap is torqued, make sure you can still freelyturn the crankshaft. There should be no resistance other than what is naturally occurring from the assembly lube. It should turn evenly. # Install the next cap following the same directions and verifying that the crankshaft still turns freely. Keep installing one cap at a time until all main bearing caps are torqued and the crankshaft is still turning freely. If you encounter ANY resistance at this stage, the block must be align bored. # Next, install the rod bearings. If the pistons are out of the block, I'd test them by installing them to the crankshaft from the bottom first, just to make sure they're turning freely, then remove them and install the piston properly. Of course, make sure the rod cap is the same one that was originally taken off. Rod caps are matched to the rods when they're manufactured. If you don't put them back right they'll bind.

# If any rod bearing does not turn freely on the crankshaft, you'll need to take them ALL to a machine shop and have the rods reconditioned. Sometimes a rod "big end" can pound out of round by a couple thousandths, messing up the fit.

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Q: Put crank back in a 283 Chevy with the same bearings and main caps that were in it now when the caps are tight the crank will not turn any suggestions?
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