you fail to mention on what type of vehicle, but if I'm not mistaken, you need to match up your starter with the original. I believe the stater you have installed might be 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch longer at the nose part. Good luck on this...........
If that is not the problem check the starter relay, solenoid or ignition switch. There should be a smaller wire going to the starter, check this one for 12v with the key in start and off. if 12v is present with key off suspect ignition switch, if not suspect solenoid.
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There are 3 components involved in the starting circuit that sends power to the coil of the starter solenoid. 1) ignition switch (it's in the steering column - turns when the key turns); 2) Starter Relay (located under the hood in the relay/fuse box); 3)Park/Neutral switch (located on the left side of the transmission).
I had a problem recently where I started my truck normally and let it idle for a minute when my starter engaged itself (I hadn't touched anything). For my problem, the starter is always engaged when the key is in the run position. I spent the last two days deermining the problem. First I replaced the starter/solenoid - same problem persisted. Second, I replaced the ignition switch - same problem persisted. Third, I replaced the Park/Neutral switch - that fixed the problem. Turns out there was a short in the Park/Neutral switch that was sending power to the Starter Relay whenever the key was in the run position. If you are stuck somewhere, there is an easy workaround. Locate the Park/Neutral switch (left side of the transmission - black plastic enclosure that has two connectors plugged into it). The larger of the two connectors (has 6 or 7 wires) has a yellow wire and a purple/white wire. Cut them both (leave at least an inch of wire on the connector so you can splice it back later). Strip the two wires coming from the harness and splice them together. This workaround enabled me to get to a garage where I could replace the Park/Neutral switch in a slightly warmer environment than the outside temp of 15 degrees.
The starter lives next to the Bell Housing on the right side of the block and is held in place with two Torx Head bolts.However......the Engine Mount Arm and Isolator Mount on that side needs to be removed first to allow the Starter to be removed. You cannot remove the Starter unless this is done....even with the engine out of the chassis.Always remove the BATTERY - NEGATIVE clamp before working on the Starter.
No, unless you were hit hard enough to damage the battery or battery connections.
Most likely the solenoid or wiring depending on the vehicle. A starter needs 2 things to operate. A current to close the circuit in the solenoid (small wire/trigger wire) and a power source to turn the starter itself (large battery cable). Battery cable goes directly to the starter from the positive battery terminal with an on/off switch in between (solenoid). The trigger wire (small wire) controls the solenoid by closing the circuit when there is power supplied to the small wire. If there is no power at the small wire then the solenoid must be stuck in the closed position unless the large battery cables to the solenoid are connected incorrectly.
The battery, cables and starter may be bad.
yes. unless the starter has shorted out and drained the battery or burned a system fuse all of the lights should operate as usual
suspect starter relay locate relay and replace temp solution run wire straight to battery from starter make sure in neutral when starting
Unless there is an aftermarket hard start relay installed on the car, there shouldn't be one. The starter is attached directly to the ignition switch and the battery.
It shouldn't unless the battery connections were dirty or left loose.
Under car front side of engine. you must first remove a small plastic cover, then the starter is easily removed. If in doubt follow the positive (+) wire from the battery to the front of the engine, It connects to the starter. IMPORTANT! before attempting to remove the starter,or do any electrical work, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! ALSO IMPORTANT! NEVER GET UNDER A VEHICLE UNLESS IT IS PROPERLY SUPPORTED! DO NOT USE A JACK TO HOLD UP A CAR YOU ARE WORKING UNDER! LEARN THE PROPER USE OF VEHICLE RAMPS, AND/OR JACKSTANDS! YOUR LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
Replace starter solenoid? Could be a bad neutral safety switch
Loose or corroded battery cables? Bad starter solenoid? Bad starter? Weak neutral safety switch?
discharged or inoperative battery inoperative starter poor connection between starter and [ground or] battery positive no 12V+ to starter S terminal (possibly bad ignition switch or aftermarket alarm)