I had that problem on the drivers side... As it turned out, the nylon drive belt inside the track had slipped on the sprocket, thus ripping through several gaps in the belt. It's not really a "BELT" since it is not a closed loop, but open ended, with holes that fit the drive sprocket, and efectively pushes and pulls the seatbelt up and down the track. This belt, track, and drive motor are available as an assembly, and requires some of the interior plastic panels to be removed. A screwdriver and a socket wrench is all that's needed to make the repair. I haven't acctually replaced mine yet, our state law only requires the lap belt, so I'll save the money for now and make the repair when I'm ready to sell the car. Besides, I really hated that dang thing! And the shoulder belt can be un-screwed from the seatbelt carrier, which is attached to the "belt" I mentioned earlier, and retracted right back to the rear floor. Check your state laws to verify your vehicle is still legal with only the lap belt. Keep in mind, if your insurance finds out that you've bypassed it, you may lose the deduction for active restraints.
Anti-submarining ramps don't have anything to do with submarines, I'm afraid. During a car crash, when a person slides underneath the seatbelt, that is called submarining. The seatbelt slides up onto the stomach, and can cause injury. An anti-submarining ramp is a ramp built into the seat cushion, underneath the foam padding, that helps to prevent the person from sliding forward on the seat underneath the seatbelt. This keeps the seatbelt in the proper position on the person's pelvis, and helps to prevent injuries to the stomach.
If your problem is that the door keeps opening and doesn't want to latch shut, then what I have been doing is carrying a piece of 3M scrubbing pad and use that to scuff up the contacts on the door and the door jam contacts. Then the door functions properly for another month or so. There is a recall on the automatic sliding doors and it involves them not latching.
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