You could repair it with JB Weld. Follow the instructions with the product.
there should be a bolt that holds it on to the engine block, just take of thee belt and remove the tensioner.
1. Place a three-eighths-inch ratchet driver into the square hole on the face of the tensioner pulley. The idler pulley is bolted onto the side of the engine block and does not attach to any other accessories. 2. Pull up on the ratchet handle to release tension on the Cadillac's serpentine belt. Pull the belt off the tensioner pulley. Don't remove the belt from any of the other pulleys. 3. Remove the two bolts that secure the tensioner arm to the engine block using a socket and ratchet. The pulley permanently mounts to the tensioner arm. 4. Remove the tensioner arm and pulley from the engine bay.
Usualy the tensioner is sold as an assembly-meaning you wouldn't just be replacing the pulley as the springs tend to weaken as often as the bearings going out. If you hear a noise and belt is not rotton/loose and are sure it is the pulley, after you have replacement, note belt routing. Use a socket that fits pulley bolt and move right against spring tension. If left req'd use pry bar. use uppermost tensioner to make it easier. Have helper (or use other hand) to get belt off. Remove old tensioner from block and add new. Replace belt.
Remove air box, pulley is located just under attached to engine block. Should remove bolts take off belt, and replace pulley and belt.
the belt tensioner is mounted to the block if you are trying to change the tensioner tou have to remove the alternator.if you are trying to change the belt it is the pulley to the left of the alternator it takes a 15mm wrench which you have to pull upwards to release tension
Move the tensioner to release belt (use bolt in center of pulley and move with socket) Then simply remove bolts from block. Reverse to put on new one.
The roller bearing dates to at least 40 BC, and it was applied to pulley blocks sometime in the dim past of history. There is probably no way to know when someone first put a roller bearing into a pulley block.
Loosen 13mm nut that secures tension pulley. Then loosen 13mm nut/bolt just above tensioner assembly facing upwards, to remove tension from belt. Then finally remove the three 10mm bolts holding tensioner assembly to engine block. Install in reverse order.
I believe you are referring to the power steering pulley. The tensioner pulley is a different system altogether. You must, however, locate the tensioner pulley to remove the belt before you remove the power steering pulley.The tensioner pulley should be generally easy to access from the top of the engine bay. It is the only pulley that should be attached to an arm that is mounted somewhere close on the block. (with the engine running at idle, look for the pulley that appears to be bouncing up and down). Turn the engine off before next steps...Use a tensioner tool to move the tensioner pulley away from the belt. With tension removed from the belt, the belt should slide off of the pulleys. With the belt now removed, you will loosen the bolt that holds the power steering pulley in place.(Power steering pulley is located on the power steering gear box, locate this by finding the power steering fluid reservoir. The reservoir should sit directly above the gear box).Once the bolt is removed, the pulley should come off the shaft (with some force). You may have to use a pulley puller tool if it does not come off by hand.Installation is reverse of removal. Good luck.
in the block
In automotive terms, There are drive pulleys such as the drive pulley mounted to the crankshaft on most engines. There are driven pulleys such as an alternator, power steering, water pump, a/c compressor and all the accessories driven by the drive pulley. There are idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys. There are timing belt pulleys. And for non automotive related terms, There are block and tackle pulley systems. There are pulley hoists. Wire rope pulley blocks. Cable pulleys. Rope pulleys.
You have to remove the tensioner assembly, not just the tensioner pulley, but the whole assembly, in order to access the plastic bypass hose. Be very careful, as these pipes get old, the plastic becomes brittle, and possibly the flange end will break off and remain in the block when you remove the pipe, check the block opening carefully to remove all of the remaining flange. Also, be very careful when removing the lover pipe nipple into the engine block, if you try to pry the tensioner assembly off the block, you will probably snap off the machined nipple that locates into the block, Ask me how I know!!! Good Luck, it can be done but you need to move carefully and deliberately. (by the way, a rebuilt tensioner assembly costs about $80 US, the pipe is about $6. New tensioner assembly comes with the pipe)