the ignition actuator is broken, you can turn off the "battery power" by the the ignition actuator rod that leads to the ignition switch, it runs along the top of the steering column under the dash, locate it and pull it towards the steering wheel, this should shut off the power. or you can unhook you battery, but either way you will have to replace the actuator.
u might have broke something the actual ignition lock cylinder, that would be my guess from the sounds of it.
If the key will turn in the ignition cylinder, the only other fault the key can have is a missing or damaged resistor. The resistor is in the middle of the key and looks like a small black oval. The resistor has one of 16 specific values and is "read" by the Pass-key module. If you have a vehicle with 30K or more on the odometer that won't start, and everything else is good, (battery, starter etc…), the most likely problem is the two little wires that connect the Pass-key module to the ignition cylinder. These wires have to flex each time the cylinder is turned and eventually break at the ignition cylinder. The only reliable repair is to replace the ignition lock cylinder and key. New Ignition lock cylinders do not come with real ignition keys, only a temporary key to identify the cuts. If the cylinder is changed you have to purchase a new key separately to match the old key resistor and then cut to match the new lock cylinder.
Since you changed your battery and starter I'm assuming you are getting fuel and spark is your problem. You should check your starter relay, the wires from the relay to your starter, the wires from your battery to the relay, the wires from your locking cylinder to the relay, and your locking cylinder. You might also check your alternator. You can take it to a parts store to have it bench tested for free.
Had the same problem, changed the positive and negative battery cable heads, this stopped the drain. Check and see if the cables are good first.
I have changed an ignition in one. I used a pneumatic cut-off wheel to cut straight slots in the blank faces of the two bolts that retain the lock cylinder. Then, I used an impact screwdriver to remove the bolts. when you get the new ignition lock cylinder, you can use a large flat screwdriver to re-install the bolts.
you either overlooked a hot lead that needs to be reconnected at the battery, or you grounded a hot wire and blew a fuse or fusible link wire
?ignition control module/pickup
This will be because someone has changed the wiring configuration - The electric window relay should be energised via a switched 12v (either straight from the ignition switch or from ignition relay) to switch a bigger current to power all the windows. In this case someone has removed the relay coil 12v feed from the switched source and connected it to a permanant source (straight from the battery and not via any switches.) -Daz Ellerington.
Change crank shaft angle sensor ul get a spark
Disconnect the negative cable and connect (insert) an ammeter between the battery and the battery cable. Remove the fuses one by one and see which causes the current draw to drop.
If you've changed the slave cylinder and bled it several times, the next step would be to check the MASTER cylinder and if that doesn't work then your clutch is burned out.
check your ignition coil. that's what happen to me when the engine get hot the car stop.