the ignition actuator is broken, you can turn off the "battery power" by the the ignition actuator rod that leads to the ignition switch, it runs along the top of the steering column under the dash, locate it and pull it towards the steering wheel, this should shut off the power. or you can unhook you battery, but either way you will have to replace the actuator.
Since you changed your battery and starter I'm assuming you are getting fuel and spark is your problem. You should check your starter relay, the wires from the relay to your starter, the wires from your battery to the relay, the wires from your locking cylinder to the relay, and your locking cylinder. You might also check your alternator. You can take it to a parts store to have it bench tested for free.
If the key will turn in the ignition cylinder, the only other fault the key can have is a missing or damaged resistor. The resistor is in the middle of the key and looks like a small black oval. The resistor has one of 16 specific values and is "read" by the Pass-key module. If you have a vehicle with 30K or more on the odometer that won't start, and everything else is good, (battery, starter etc…), the most likely problem is the two little wires that connect the Pass-key module to the ignition cylinder. These wires have to flex each time the cylinder is turned and eventually break at the ignition cylinder. The only reliable repair is to replace the ignition lock cylinder and key. New Ignition lock cylinders do not come with real ignition keys, only a temporary key to identify the cuts. If the cylinder is changed you have to purchase a new key separately to match the old key resistor and then cut to match the new lock cylinder.
I have changed an ignition in one. I used a pneumatic cut-off wheel to cut straight slots in the blank faces of the two bolts that retain the lock cylinder. Then, I used an impact screwdriver to remove the bolts. when you get the new ignition lock cylinder, you can use a large flat screwdriver to re-install the bolts.
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