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Other sources on the web say speed on my 2008 Tomos Nitro 50 is limited by the CDI.

These are classed as scooters because they have speed governed to about 31 mph.

HOWEVER, my Nitro had a plastic washer in the variator to limit the highest pulley ratio. The GREAT news is that you can remove this washer WITHOUT disassembling the variator pulley. This is great because you'd have a hard time torquing the big slippery variator pulley nut back to 28 lbs or whatever the manual says.

I had bought a "boa constrictor" type rubber band wrench (looks like an oil filter wrench) with the plan of disassembling the variator to remove the washer. The rubber band was too thick to slip between the starter pinion and the variator plate it engages. So when I was unable to get a grip on the pulley, I started dealing with the washer that I was surprised to see was made of plastic. It is 4mm wide by 2mm thick and 25mm outside diameter with a rectangular cross section.

1 - I started by downloading the service manual from the web, since the pictures (except plastic body parts) seem to match the Tomos Nitro 50. Use this to get familiar with pulling the bolts on the CVT unit. WATCH OUT for incorrect bolt torquing figures. There are several bad conversions from metric.

For a service manual try:

http://www.chinesescooterclub.co.uk/tech_docs.htm

2 - DO NOT BOTHER TRYING TO REMOVE THE KICK-START, IT TRAVELS WITH THE CVT COVER, LEAVE IT ALONE.

3 - Once I had the CVT cover off I tried using a 1/2 inch straight wood chisel to slice through the plastic, but my chisel was not sharp enough and the washer will spin away. There is very little clearance to tap or wiggle the chisel.

I ultimately used a small, long-nosed Vise Grip type locking pliers so that I could "bite" the washer repeatedly in the same place and twist it. I wore through it and pulled it off. It didn't take long, but remember to bring extra swear words so you won't run out and have to stop work.

You may want to try long, thin, angled needle nose pliers to work on the plastic washer. It is very tough plastic.

4 - Once the washer is removed, put the cover and gasket back on, check the manual to be sure you torque the bolts to the right setting so they won't strip or vibrate loose.

RESULTS - Before this I used to run at about 32 mph on the speedo and governed to max of 7000 rpm (redline 8000 on tach). At top speed I used to hear and feel a "thrumming" that I assumed was some kind of timing governor limiting the power based on what the factory set as the top pulley ratio.

It takes a while for the variator to start gearing higher. On my first ride I only saw about another 1 mph and figured I'd wasted my time. But over the next few rides it climbed to 37 mph on the speedo and the tach still tops out at 7000. The bike seems more responsive and more fluid when varying speeds in traffic. Now at about 32 mph on the speedo, the tach runs about 6200.

The manual says the engine gets max torque at about 6000 to 6500 so I figure I'm running it about as efficiently and quietly as it can.

ACCELERATION - Acceleration feels better in that it continues beyond where it used to taper off. Overall I feel a satisfying improvement in bike behaviour.

People love to hate the acceleration of 49cc 4 strokes. But coming off the line from a stoplight, I have always kept up with the cars beside me. How much faster do we need to get up to our maximum?

What frazzled me was cars suddenly closing in on my tail as my speed topped out at 31. Now my speed can keep climbing and they don't crowd my tail the way they used to.

I speculate that we think we have poor acceleration largely because the speedo takes sooo long to come up. Just watch how slowly the needle drops when you stop. It lags your speed by about 5 seconds.

So for no cost, you can now keep up with the chronically speeding traffic in 30 mph (50 Kph) zones. It feels better behaved and you spend less time with the throttle pinned. I'm tall and weigh almost 200 lbs, so if my weight and wind resistance are higher than yours, you should do even better.

Answerolder answer: there is no governer bud

I have the 2011 tomos nitro 50. And it has a 80 cc bore kit, i first got a tomos cdi for a 150 with more rev cause there was a problem i guess with cdi's not showing the tach on aftermarket cdi's. So i orderd one from scrappydogs.com and nothing really changed except it started a little better and maybe a tiny bit faster of the line other then that same top end, witch is what i want improved. I get to 43 very fast and max out unless i'm doing my ninja tuck or going down a hill the most i got it to was about 48-50 but that was really trying hard. i think with a bore kit i should do 50 easy but no i'm stuck at 43 and i changed the cdi. aftermarket air filter, custom oil catch tube with filter. I had 8.5 rollers that actually made it a little faster but they wore out so i put my stock back in witch is less then 8.5 but i ordered dr pulley sliders 9.5, 20 mm carb, ngk spark plug. so hopefully after the sliders, carb and spark plug it will go faster. Another thing i noticed is my idle is 2500, and i do have a little valve tick (so i ordered valve adjuster feelers and will adjust the valves and maybe it will come down? I dunno but i think i will also get as big a windshield as i can get cause when i do ninja tuck i get 5-7 more mph so yea all in all i dunno why it still feels restricted but yea, thought i would throw in my experience.

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Q: Tomos nitro where is the governor?
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