Most of the time, the steps to take to set the timing are on the catalyst sticker under the hood. But first, you must get the vehicle into base timing (usually disconnect a wire from distributor). Remove distributor hold down bolt, hook up timing light to #1 spark plug wire, start engine, and align timing mark (0°) Once this is set, reconnect the wire you had to disconnect for base timing. Timing advance will automatically set itself. if it doesn't, you have a faulty timing advance mechanism on the distributor. You can check timing advance by pointing the timing light at scale (while hooked up to #1 spark plug wire) and rev the motor. Timing marks should move up the scale.
On many GM cars and trucks the wire that you disconnect is solid gray in color, it is in the wiring harness on the firewall, the wire has a black plug for separating when doing the timing.
You need to find someone that has an advance timing light. With it they can set the total advance at 35 degrees at 2,000 RPM. That will be your best performance setting.
There is no set timing for this specification. If you are using a mechanical advance distributor rather than a computer you will initially target 35 degrees total advance over 2500 rpm with an idle setting of 10 degrees with out vacuum advance. From there experimentation to determine most effective setting for your engine.
5 degrees BTDC. remember to set the idle to 800rpm for automatic transmission and plug the vacuum advance ose before setting the timing.
2/15/08 I don't know when this was posted, but the steps are. 1. disconnect timing connector (which I cannot find). 2. connect timing light to no1 sparkplug. 3. with engine running at idle check for 0 degrees. 4. if not loosing distributor bolt and turn for 0 degrees tighten bolt. 5. reconnect timing connector.
The vacuum canister can advance 24 degrees beyond initial timing.
5 degrees BTDC electronic advance must be disabled first then 5degrees before tdc
Engines 389 and larger can be set for 6 degrees BTDC. Remember to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose before setting the base timing.
just the top one that is the vacum advance, timing should be 2 degrees BTDC with vacum advance line removed and blocke
I didn't see a specific year year you're interested in, however a 1978 Olds 403 is listed as 18 degrees initial timing (detach and plug vacuum advance hose while setting initial advance).
8 Degrees BTDC. / Before top dead center. Be sure to unhook the vaccum advance on the distributor when setting the timing.
the timing shoujld be 8 degrees BTDC. If your engine has a vacume advance hose running to the distributor than you will have to remove it from the distributor and seal it off before setting the timing.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 That is the correct "firing order" , but I believe he wanted to know the "initial timing" setting. I googled it, and came up with 08 degrees BTDC (before top dead center)for a '79 350 Chevy. That should put you in the ballpark, but experimenting with your timing setting for optimum performance is usually required, especially if the engine isn't completely "stock". Good luck. Also if you are setting timing for the first time disconnect the vacume advance hose from carb / or manifold then set base timiming at 8 degrees. The advance in H.E.I will set the rest of the advance setting for that year of truck.
According to your shop manuals (Chilton's, Haynes, etc.) it states to set the timing to 0 degrees with the advance unplugged. You then need to disconnect the battery to let the ECM reset, plug your advance back in and re-connect the battery. Now when you check you timing again it will be well advanced from the 0 degrees you set it at, this is normal. However, I have recently spoken to two separate professional enginge builders and they have told me that setting your timing to 0 degrees is wrong, they both have stated to set it to 10 degrees BTDC with the advance disconnected. They have also told me that you should not have more than a 34 degree advance at 2000 rpm at any time. 0 degrees timing causes your engine to run a little hotter, which I have experienced and you have a potential to crak a head, also something I have personally experienced.
I have a 1990 and factory setting for base timing is 10 degrees, I believe.
10 degrees advance
-6 degrees BTDC
800rpm manual transmission, o degrees advance 1200rpm automatic transmission 4 degrees advance
Use a timing light with vacuum advance disconnected set base timing to 6 degrees
The total timing advance on a 1995 Chevrolet 350 engine should be around 35 degrees. This takes into account the advance provided by the ignition system.
10 degrees BTDC
Ignition timing is setting the point at which the sparkplug fires relative to where the piston is in the cylinder. The highest point the piston can go is called top dead center, or TDC. Timing is set for a number of degrees of crankshaft rotation BEFORE TDC; the number of degrees is determined by the factory, and since it's setting the plug to fire before TDC, it's called the "timing advance". If you set the timing to be closer to TDC than the factory setting, you're reducing the advance, or "retarding" the ignition timing. If you set it to be farther from TDC, you're "advancing" the timing. Changing the timing can dramatically change a motor's power and efficiency. The reason you set the timing before TDC is that you want the exploding gas to be compressed by the upward-moving piston and force the piston back down, generating power. If you retarded the ignition so far that the plug fired after TDC, the piston would already be moving down when the gas exploded and you'd waste most of the energy from the explosion.
8 to 9 degrees with a timing light with vacuum advance hooked up,
loosten distributer bolt, point the timin light at the timing grid on the harmonic balancer and turn the distributer to either advance or retard the timing.
6 degrees BTDC.
hey i have a 73 ranchero 400ci and just set the timing at 6 degrees advance.