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Everything that I've read on the subject suggests that this control is driven electronically. That is, the computer opens and closes the valve. Sludge buildup will cause it to stick open - it seems no one has one to stick closed.

The computer uses proprietary software, which seems to be unavailable to small auto shops, and do-it-yourself people. The "fix" is to take the vehicle to a Ford shop, where they will re-program your computer, telling it to cycle that valve during driving, to prevent the build up of sludge.

Since the air ports are located between the intake manifold and the valves, physically cleaning them would mean removing the manifold.

Removing the manifold on an older car is little challenge to me. I hate working on these newer cars, with everything made of aluminum, and no room to get your hand into the small spaces, let a alone the tool necessary to turn the bolt. Perfect recipe for stripped bolts, and yet more expensive repairs.

*Edit* You can also try looking at the hose that goes into the IMRC necause sometimes they can crack and that is a simple and cheap fix. I posted a link to a YouTube video on locating the hose. Hope this helps someone =)both actuators share the same vacuum source so if one goes bad they both don't work, using a vacuum pump on each actuator will tell you witch one is bad, when they fail they stay open...there is a left and a right bank .if they both work with external vacuum check the hoses for manifold vacuum you have to plug one hose to check then the other

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Q: What can be done to fix the intake manifold runner control stuck open on a 1998 ford pu OBD trouble Codes P1537 P1538?
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