Removing sealers can be one of the most daunting experiences for the contractor. Typically a removal will include a lot of elbow grease, solvent fumes, lots and lots of scrapping and much aggravation. We did a little research on the Decorative Concrete Forums and compiled a few suggestions from contractors that have been successful removing sealers. Using a cotton sheet and solvent: Instead of using paint removers and scraping the old sealer off by hand, you can simply use a flat white cotton sheet and a solvent. Place the sheet on the sealed surface, spray the active ingredient such as a Xylene, Toluene or other strong solvent onto the sheet and soak it real well. Wait until the solvent is fully dried and remove the sheet and the sealer will come right up with it. You may need to repeat several times but according to a few contractors it works like a charm. How does it work? Well, the solvent penetrates thought the sealer, re emulsifies it and then the sealer will soak the sheet, after it dries it is stuck to the sheet and not to the floor. It may need to be repeated because if the sheet is not completely flat you'll miss some areas. I suggest you go to a few garage sales and buy some old sheets so your wife won't be upset you are using your good sheets from home. Also use only white sheets as colored ones will discolor and may stain the floor. If you are going to use this system always make sure you have extinguished all pilot lights and flames, have enough ventilation and wear proper respiratory equipment. Always follow extreme precautions when dealing with flammable solvents. These commercially available strippers and sealer removers were highly recommended by contractors: Soy Gel from Franmar
Hydrostrip From ICI
Zep Citrus Strip
Citraclean. We suggest you do some testing before using any of these strippers before acid staining, we know that Bean-e-doo mastic remover will remove glues and mastic very effectively but it darkens the concrete and affects the stain. Test!, Test!, Test! For more information or questions please visit the Decorative Concrete Forums. Answer Depending on how old the sealer is and whether it is indoors or outdoors. Sealer can be removed with a Citrus Degreaser. Normally this type of product is found at construction supply stores for the professional. The bid home centers probably will not have the product you need. Most companies that make concrete sealers will also have a degreaser. To remove sealer from interior concrete, you must have some tools for the job: scrub brushes, a floor "swing machine" or polisher with a black scrub pad, a wet/dry shopvac, good quality string mop and bucket, plenty of masking material. First you must mask the area if there is finished trim or painted walls around the area. You only need to mask about 12" up from the floor. Apply degreaser with a water brush in a manageable area (about 4' square to start until you're comfortable) lightly brush into the concrete so it is evenly spread. Wait about 30 minutes, add some clean water with the string mop just letting the water fall on the area. Using the floor machine, scrub the area very well. Use scrub brushes in tight corners. Suck up the excess with the shopvac. Once you become comfortable with the size of area you can handle, you can increase the volume. The 30 minute waiting time CAN NOT be shortened!! Remember, the sealer is IN the concrete, not just on top of it. Once the process is complete for the entire floor, mop the area with lots of clean water. You will know if you are not removing all of the sealer if while scrubbing, it becomes very slick and you can't control the floor machine. If this happens, apply more degreaser and let it sit longer.
For outdoor concrete, basically the same method only you can apply the degreaser with a Chapin sprayer, add water after 30 minutes and scrub with the floor machine, then power wash the excess. The degreaser is citrus based so it will not harm the environment. For more information, you can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
What exactly is concrete sealer? What does it consist of and is it safe to use at home, indoors?
Muriatic acid reacts with cement, concrete, and limestone. It may not be suitable for removing an oil based or water based sealer from these products. If you know what type of sealer it was, contact the manufacturer for information.
Take a look into a sealer called StoneLok. You will definitely want to go with a polyurethane sealer because it will have a thicker base. Twice as thick as an acrylic sealer.
A concrete sealer can be purchased online from good hardware stores and also from a high street hardware store. They are easy to use so long as the instructions are followed.
You can use a chemical stripper to remove an acrylic concrete sealer. Several types of removers are available including biodegradable coating strippers, water based cleaners, and caustic strippers.
Yes you can use wood stain on concrete but it will not penetrate the concrete, it does look nice and you can use different shades together. To keep the stain on it use a concrete sealer in a couple coats, it will give it a shiny wet look. I have tried it with fake wood only because where I live I can't get concrete stain. And it looks great.
OK, that is stamped concrete. things you don't want to use are a pressure washer. It will blow the release color off the concrete and destroy the area you are trying to save. first you will want to remove any sealer on the the affected area, you can do this with xylene (you can get it right at home depot) this won't hurt the concrete or the color, and will re liquify the sealer (if it is a topical sealer) once you have use the xylene clean the area with denatured alchohol to remove any residule sealer, once you have done that scrub with a non caustic cleaner such as simple green. if the stain still remains your best option is to contact somone experienced in concrete and have them remove the small stained area and replace it. I did stamped concrete for years so i know what i am doing with this. if i saw this i would do the things i said and if it didn't ome clean i would use a grinder to remove the small section that is orange and then repour it using a high psi mix hand tinted (id mix and pour samples at home first to verify the correct color to concrete ratio) and then just use a small edge stamp to redo the texture.
I use one of those straight razor holders and scrape it off.
It's important to apply a concrete sealer before adding the tiles. If you don't, the alkali's in the concrete will eventually break down the adhesive resulting in the tiles peeling off. Absolutely Correct!! To elaborate on the "alkali's in the concrete" understand the following: Portland Cement is a very alkali rich material. Not all the chemicals in concrete completely hydrate as it cures and this high alkaline condition exist and continues for years. You've heard about "Alkali Burn" causing paints to peel or blister?? This is why! The chemicals in a concrete interior are allowed to migrate out to a surface and contaminates can enter an interior through the Gel-Pore / Capillary system found in all concretes. A sealer is applied to prevent this!! Choose a sealer that comes with a warranty for waterproofing [15 years] and one that is compatible with you tile manufacturers list of approved adhesives. Otherwise you may void any warranty on the tiles and or adhesive. Do not use a sealer that allows for a subsequent [Second] application!! Ask yourself what happened to the first coat?? Avoid a sealer that cautions " Do Not allow sealer to come in contact with metals or glass" !! They don't work!!
Yes, just use two coats of a 100% acrylic paint. However, using a sealer prior to painting the statue will ensure a more uniform finish.
To get crayon off of concrete, use ice to freeze the crayon wax. Then scrape off and spritz the area with cleanser.
It all depends on what the concrete is used for. If it's a footing or foundation that's in direct contact with, and buried by, surrounding earth, you can use heavy duty (6 mil) poly sheeting, or glop asphalt/tar all over it. If you're talking a sidewalk, driveway, stairs, or some such visible surface with foot or vehicle traffic, you want to use a penetrating sealer---concrete sealer, or Thompson's Water Seal.
try pressure washing it off. . .this should lift off that kind of paint or you can use acid wash for concrete
Yes. Be careful to get sealer only on the threads.
Can sealer is device or a machine that can seal a can for easy storage or alike. In home can sealer usually used it in resealing the food for later use. In some huge industry that can sealer or case sealer for there product packaging.
Sealer is applied on top of the glaze & does not penetrate the glass Glaze, so over time & with use & cleaning it will wear off. so YES!
how can we use take off
Go to a paint store and get a concrete sealer. This is a paint that will seal the concrete so you can paint without all you paint being absorbed into the concrete. Then paint it on and let it dry. Next paint the color you have decided to paint the bird bath.
First use a wash of TSP to get the surface totally clean and allow to dry fully. Then use two of coats of a primer/sealer such as Kilz (if can be tinted too). Follow with at least two coats of interior paint-look for a paint specifically made for concrete. The concrete can also stained to create many different looks.
First, put the roll in the device to get started with the vacuum sealer. Cut some off the roll, and place it in the slot below. Turn the device on and place what you want in the pouch that you just cut off. Replace it in the slot, and voila you are done!
Porcelain is usually sealed already. You then add sealer to the grout.
You can use powdered dish detergent. Pour on stain and let it soak, then use a broom and brush it over the concrete.
The best type of paint to use on brick in a kitchen is paint that is designed for porous surfaces such as concrete. You should finish it with a sealer to make it easier to clean.
Use the moveobjects on cheat and click on your flowers and place it on the concrete
I get it, your stamped concrete is looking a little faded, blotchy, or even kind of whitish on the surface. And you want to restore it to its original look when the concrete was first sealed, right? In theory, resealing your Stamped Concrete should be quite easy, but if you're not careful, resealing it might make it look worse. There's just some things you have to do before you re-seal your stamped concrete driveway, patio or pool deck. First thing is to clean the concrete. I like to use a pressure washer with a cone tip. Keep the tip between 12 - 18 inches away from the surface of the concrete or you could leave lines from the pressured water on the concrete. A 3000 psi pressure washer is all you'll need. You're not trying to remove all the original concrete sealer. You just want to clean any dirt, pollon, and debris off the surface. You'll probably remove some loose, flaking areas of sealer but that's good to.