Can be several things: * rust on the pistons preventing them from retracting * rust on sliding pins locking the halves of the caliper together * an internally damaged brake hose acting like a one-way valve and not releasing pressure
it need to be cleand its to much dirt inside the calipers bushing you dont need to chang it just open it and clean it and put it back its gune abe ok.
Push in the piston on the caliper with your hand or a vice grips to get more clearance.
Does the car pull to one side at all when you brake? Even if it doesnt, the calipers could be frozen open which causes back pressure in the lines, making it hard to push the pedal.
The emergency brake must be on for the top to open. If the brake light on the dash does not come on with the emergency brake on then you will need to replace the switch on the emergency brake.
Either the caliper piston is frozen stuck or the hydraulic brake hose has collapsed internally. Open the bleeder on that caliper and see if the pressure releases, if it does you have a bad brake hose.
a little cell that controls the leaf to open and close
By minute electrical singles produced by the heart itself to open and close the valves.
There is a bolt on the top and bottom of the INSIDE (back side, toward the engine) of the calipers. Remove these two bolts. Next, open your bleeders on the caliper to release the pressure from the brake lines. Your calipers will slide away, either forward or backward from the rotor. You may need to use a screwdriver to help this along. The brake pads should drop out as you clear the rotor. Put your brake shoes back in the correct way (inboard/outboard). I didn't and darn near killed myself!
don't know the particular vehicle but since the 50's hyd brake systems have a proportioning valve block just after the master cylinder to prevent loss of all brakes in event of blowing a hose. two person procedure. open bleeder on farthest wheel from master cyl opposite end of car from calipers ur working on. have buddy depress and hold to floor brake pedal while u close bleeder. may have to do a couple of times to recenter proport. valve. don't forget to rebleed all 4 corners of air after recentering. hope this helps jp
Simple. Open your hood and open the brake fluid resivor lid Jack the vehicle on a stable surface. Use jackstands to hold the vehicle up. Remove the lug nuts, take off the weel. Then you will have access to the brake caliper, Remove the two retaining bolts holding it on, Remove the old brake pads. * this par is not required but makes it so much easier* Then use a small wrench to open the brake bleeder screw. Then use a small clamp to press the brake pad plunger in the caliper all the way in, close the bleeder screw* and install new brake pads. bolt caliper back on, then to make sure there is no air in the wheel. have someone slowly depress the brake pedal while you open the bleeder screw again, brake fluid should leak out, while its leaking tighten it to close it off. replace wheel. lightly tighten lugs, drop car . fully tighten lugs. Repeat process on other side of car. If brakes dont work, re-bleed both from calipers.
Normally a front brake issue, could be an alignment, suspension or tire issue. Check that all suspension parts are in good condition and all connections are tight and that there's no obvious misalignment or disproportionate wear of the front tires. Next, check that front left caliper is not sticking closed and that front right caliper is not sticking open. If calipers are working, try replacing the brake hoses to the calipers, normally the opposite side to the direction it's pulling will be collapsed causing the 'offside' caliper to not close.
No.