If you have a union in the suction piping as many well systems do it may be the culprit. some times tightening the union will fix the problem.
Another place air can enter is through the pump seal,if it is worn it may allow air to be pulled into the pump when it is running. replacing the seal can sometimes fix the problem. If you are losing the prime on your well system the problem is between the check valve and the well,if not the problem is between the check valve and the pump.
check your PCV Valve
Need to check if blow-by valve is working correctly.
A dual check valve is similar to a double check valve in that it is a mechanical backflow preventer consisting of two independently acting, spring-loaded check valve.
Low vacuum, an external leak, or a leaking vaccum check valve are the only causes.Low vacuum, an external leak, or a leaking vaccum check valve are the only causes.
Thermostat possibly stuck open or heater control valve broken. Now if you mean the blower motor has stopped working, check the fuse, blower motor itself, or the blower motor resistor pack.
nexted oil change get oil filter with a check valve this should help
replace only when u get a check engine light. the valve is good for the life of the motor(should be)
Check the specs for the vehicle you are working on (You can find them on the net if you do not have the manual) and the torque requirements will be there. Do not over torque the bolts as removing a broken valve cover bolt is a pain. Good luck.
Check for leaks in vacuum hoses, check for a cracked or gunked up Idle Air Control valve, and check you throttle positioning sensor.
check the idle control valve not that hard to replace and inexpensive
intex sand filter is not working on filter only working on recirculate position.....what should we do
class of valve means standardization of the valve . For different working pressure and working field different class of valve required. A.k. Bora
You did not say what you are working on. but you can check the plugs, wires, coil, and maybe the fuel injector low engine compresson, broken valve spring.vaccum leak... dist cap. Realey need more info.
i believe the reflux valve is just a type of check valve, the flapper type.
Perhaps a vacuum leak check power brake booster and check valve at booster
There is no difference between check valve and NRV, both are same
Check the temperature control valve. You're probably allowing hot engine coolant through the rear heater coil.
foot valve is the same type of valve with check valve but the application is on the section side of pump for priming purpose
you should check egr valve and check for a vacuum leak
Check the Park Avenue EGR valve for a clog. A clogged valve can cause a rough idle and stall at a light.
Perhaps a vacuum leak check power brake booster for leak and also inlet check valve on booster
Most likely the reverse band (in an automatic) - Also note that some of these cars used an anti-fill/drain-back valve in the valve body, this can cause a delay in how long it takes for reverse or low to start working.
Pushrods don't usually cause many problems, but you could pull the valve covers off and check to see if everything is in working order. All the rockers should be snug and the pushrods should resist rotation.