Looks like you shouldn't have opened it. A Durant Toyota mechanic opened mine and it never worked again.
well iam a retard you have take off the door panel to get to the motor but to replace the window switch get a flathead sd and stick it under the front of the switch holder and lift up
The drivers window switch on the master switch energizes a solenoid for the express down feature of the drivers window. The solenoid deenergizes when the window bottoms out causing the thermal overload in the window motor to open. A spring in the solenoid is supposed to break the open circuit and provide power to the close circuit when deenergized. Sometimes the spring gets weak or the solenoid plunger is sticky preventing powering the close circuit. Removing the door panel and diaassembling the master switch is not a DIY. I have had success banging on the arm rest adjacent to the master switch to get the spring to make the close circuit. My guess is the rear window switch gets its power from the same movable contact as the drivers window switch.
fuse-box under hood
The switch could be bad at the passenger seat. The switch could be bad at the passenger seat.
Inside the rear view mirror! Enjoy.
REMOVE AND REPLACE SWITCH AND CRIMP THE CONNECTOR TO THE SWITCH.
un plug the connector at the window regulator, check for 12V, if you have it when you press the switch up or down, its your regulator, if not it mat be the window switch or a problem further up a wiring diagram Justin
There is no resetting it. Either your circuit won't close (could be due to a broken switch, broken or shorted wiring, a bad relay, etc.) or the window motor is toast.
Remove the inside door window panel. Make sure the window is on the window track. Make sure the window linkage is not needing repair. Replace the window motor.
in my trail blazer i took the whole switch assembly apart and discovered that a miny diode had fried. It is a matter of replacing the switch assembly.
You probably have a bad window switch (someone else wrote) --------------------------------------------------- I have a 1990 Toyota Camry DX with power windows and locks. The series of car run from 1987,1988,1989,1990,1991. I prefer the crank windows. This is my 3rd Toyota of this series. AND... I wish the window switch would be that easy... maybe on some but not the one I have. It is the rear passenger window. It would go down but not up. So I thought that I would get a used MASTER window switch. But that one could be bad also... how do I know. The tests that I ran were to find out if the wires that were going to the widow switch were getting power. (Using a multimeter-12volts) I would press down on the Master switch to see if there was any power coming through. I would have power on one wire but not on the other. Before I even started this, I pulled out the window motor and tested it by connecting a wire to the battery of the car to see if it would go up and down by switching the wires from positive to negative and vise-versa. So I am still waiting to find a used 'WORKING' Master window switch to swap and find out if it works or not. If a good one doesn't work... IT HAS TO BE A GROUNDED/SHORTED or cut off wire somewhere along the path of the one wire. The MASTER SWITCH is fairly complicated. I have taken it apart to test and see if there was anything that may have broken/severed/blown up BUT found nothing significant. I tried using logic by the process of elimination and that's why I'm thinking that it is the MASTER window switch. Did you ever try and buy a new one? Did you ever look at the cost of a new one? It seems to be worth more than the car. W -------------------------------------
You normally gain access to the bulb from inside the trunk.