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Mercon III

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Q: What fluid goes in m5r1 trans for 95 ranger?
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How do you separate the input shaft from output shaft 95 ford ranger m5r1 trans?

they are pressed together pry them apart


You are putting a brand new factory M5R1 Transmission back in your 1991 Ranger you assume it will arrive empty of fluid so what is the absolute best fluid to put in it and how much should it hold?

2.8 quarts of Mercon ATF.


Will a m5r1 fit in place of a a4ld?

It is possible to fit an M5R1 in place of an A4LD engine. This can be done with certain modifications.


How do you tell which manual transmission is in your 1992 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4?

You will need to get the Tag number then go to provided link and look her up. [http://www.drivetrain.com/tagtokitconvfordtrk.html What Ford transmission do I have, Toyo-Kogyo, Maxda M5R1, M5R2, Mitsubishi, FM145, FM146]


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How do you remove the drive shaft on a 95 ford ranger?

Mark driveshaft, differential yoke, and transmission splines to make sure all are installed in same location to maintain factory balance. Remove and discard small "u" bolts at differential yoke Pry driveshaft out of yoke and up onto to transmission splines Drop driveshaft and pull out of transmission splines Replace "U" bolts on new installation This part is for 2.3L and 2.9L (7.5" axle) NOTE (the above is for the 4.0L 8.8" axle). To remove the drive shaft from the rear end you need a 12pt 12mm 1/2inch drive socket. (you can use 3/8" drive but they will probably break) If parking brake is inopt a 1/2' impact is highly recommended. The bolts are grade 8 or whatever the metic equivelant is. They need 70-90 ft lbs of torque when replaced. I have ruined 2 yokes on a drive shafts for a manual transmission (m5r1). I did it 2x by using the old way of beating u-joint with 4lb hammer the out of the yoke. The yoke bends easy. I have not tried heating the ends and using a hydraulic press to push the end caps out. The drive shaft end does not seem to bend as easy. Using a hammer to remove the u-joint from the driveshaft end first, using block of hardwood to hold thedrive shaft up and a drift pin on the u joint will push the end cap out. DO NOT HIT THE YOKE! If you have aluminum drive shaft dont let the wood block slip off the weld on the end. Or use a hydraulic ram has to push the cap out and the ear has to be kept static. Fab a piece to push the joint. If you dont have a mig welder and plasma cutter handy. use an old socket to hold the ear steady and push the end cap into it. This can be done with an air hammer if you are patient. MAKE SURE YOU PAINT A STRIPE on the assembly before taking it apart, if you dont the shaft assembly will have to rebalanced. If the drive shaft is out of balance it will wear the tail shaft bushing out quickly. The tail shaft bushings are very hard to find. Out of balance usually doesnt help out the transmission bearings much either.