The sand washes back straight down the beach
As waves approach shore, their wavelengths decrease while the wave height increases. This is because the wave energy is squeezed into a smaller space due to the shallower depth of the water near the shore, causing the wave to become steeper and break.
Friction with the sea bed/shore
The wave speed decreases as it enters shallower water near the shore due to a decrease in water depth. This causes the waves to slow down and increase in height, ultimately leading to wave breaking as the top of the wave moves faster than the bottom.
Yes
Higher near shore. The land is denser than the water so the wave is higher.
As a wave approaches the shore, its height increases and its speed decreases. This causes the wave's energy to be concentrated, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches shallow water near the shore. The breaking of the wave causes it to release its energy, creating the crashing sound associated with waves hitting the shore.
It diffracts
Their wave size increases.
As a wave approaches the shore, its wavelength decreases, causing the wave to increase in height. This is known as wave shoaling. Eventually, the wave will break as the water depth becomes shallow enough for the wave to no longer be stable.
Since we don't know what "this wave" is, we cannot answer the question.
As a wave nears shore, the wave height increases as the wave interacts with the seabed, causing it to slow down and compress. This leads to a decrease in wavelength, as the wave energy becomes concentrated in a smaller area. Ultimately, this can result in the wave breaking as it reaches shallow water near the shore.
When a wave reaches an irregular shoreline, the wave front will refract, causing it to bend around the contours of the shoreline. This refraction occurs because the shallow water near the shore slows down the part of the wave closer to the shore, causing the wave front to bend.