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superchloination?firstly it is used to correct a problem,say of neglect ofsanitization and secondly it occurs with over stabilising a pool .
Wiki User
∙ 15y ago
Wiki User
∙ 11y agoadding a high dosage of chlorine to your swimming pool water to kill bacteria.
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How do you get the alage out of the swimming pool water?
Clean the filter first; 24/7 fileration; superchlorination; adjusting the pH and Total Alkalinity to specs. When pool is crystal clean - clean the filter again, readjust chemistry, maintain 12 to 15 hrs of filtration thru the swimming season.
Is flex rubber hoses safe for water lines to drinking water?
Yes as long as the water stays chlorinated. If the water in the lines is not used for an extended period of time and the chlorine is diminished you can get what are called SRB or sulfur reducing bacteria which will produce HS hydogen sulfide gas. These can be eliminated by replacing the lines or superchlorination.
How do you lower the combined chlorine level?
Actually you add more chlorine, I would recommend 12 1/2% liquid. You need to reach the breakthrough superchlorination point to oxidize the contaminants creating the chloramine or combined chlorine. You can also use potassium monopersulfate which is a non-chlorine oxidizer and will allow you to use the pool sooner as it will only free up the chlorine already in the pool. Depending on several factors you may need to add some chlorine after using the PMS.
How do I vacuum my swimming pool and bypass the filter?
A D.E filter gives you an extremely consistent, and highly effective filtration. However, in certain situations it is better to bypass the filter. Such as the event of an extreme algae bloom. Superchlorination kills the algae, flocculant will coagulate the deader algae and make it settle to the bottom. But if you pass that muck through your filter its not only bad for your filter. But it will make you lose your attitude also. The easiest solution is to add a three way valve between the pump and the filter. Which will allow you vacuum without bogging down the filter.
How long do baby wait after pool is shock with chemicals?
Shocking a swimming pool refers to the application of large quantities of chlorine (superchlorination), non-chlorine shock or hydrogen peroxide. Typically 5-10 times the normal dose is used, based upon actual conditions and needs. The purpose of this large dose is to break down the combined chlorine, organic waste and contamination and re-establish a positive level of Free Chlorine. Shocking must be repeated, until such time as a stable Free Chlorine reading can be achieved, for at least a few hours. Make sure that a Free Chlorine capable test kit is being used, in order to know when breakpoint chlorination has been achieved. Products such as liquid chlorine, sodium dichlor, lithium and calcium hypochlorite, non-chlorine shock and compounded products are used for this purpose. None of these products can be used in a biguanide-maintained pool. Only concentrated hydrogen peroxide can be used to shock these pools. A pool should be shock treated at the first signs of algae, after heavy rainfall, after periods of heavy bather usage and at the onset of a loss of water clarity or quality. Another common practice is to shock treat the pool every Sunday evening. Typically, this is after a period of high bather demand and will help to re-establish the sanitizer level. A periodic shock treatment helps to prevent the development of sanitizer-resistant microorganisms
How long after putting 2 gallons of shock can you swim?
You should always check that your chlorine level has dropped back into the recommended range 1-3ppm. You can do this by using a test kit. When you shock a pool the chlorine goes sky high. Wait until it has returned to the correct level.
What is require to convert salt water to fresh water?
how to convert saltwater to freshwater? A "salt water" pool simply means that the salt added to the water passes through a salt cell which serves as a chlorine generator. The salt is changed on an as needed basis to chlorine. A "fresh water" pool (the most common) typically uses chlorine tabs (3" trichlor tabs that resemble the shape of a hockey puck) which are stored in a chlorinator and dissolve slowly over time to release chlorine into the water. From time to time, you'll need to add shock (calcium hypochloride) to the pool to superchlorinate the pool. If you don't have a lot of debris in your pool or a high amount of swimmers, you really won't need to do this very often if your chemicals are properly maintained. Superchlorination is a temporary bleach out type of effect to destroy bacteria or an outbreak of algae. It will be the trichlor tabs (and the appropriate stabilizer/cyanuric acid levels, pH and total alkalinity) which is what keeps your chemicals in balance and your chlorine levels steady. The chlorinator can be what is referred to as an in-line chlorinator (installed in the plumbing lines AFTER the water exits the filter) where a portion of the water in the return lines passes beyond the tabs and mixes in with the water returning to the pool via the jets. The less expensive option is a floating chlorinator ($15 or less at your local supply store). The floating chlorinator simply floats on the surface. Both types have adjustments as to how much water is let in and thus how much chlorine is released. Both have pros and cons associated with them. If you want the quick solution for a conversion, you'll want to use a submersible pump to remove all the "salt water" from your pool. Once all the water is drained from the pool, you can refill with your garden hose and you'll need to test your water and add chemicals. The important areas to consider are your total alkalinity first, your pH (which the TA will keep in check), your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels to hold the chlorine and your calcium hardness (sometimes you need to raise this after draining and refilling a pool). Once those are in balance, the chlorine is easy by just adding your tabs and maybe a small amount of shock (calcium hypochloride) to give you an initial boost. You don't HAVE to drain your pool to convert. You don't have to remove your salt cell either. If you turn the salt cell off, the salt will "burn off" over time from evaporation, swimmer use (splashing). Once you begin using the chemical chlorine and shut the salt cell off, your pool water will have salt in it that slowly dissipates. If you want to rush this conversion...drain the pool as mentioned above. For those of you that find this answer and are wanting to convert from "fresh water" to a salt pool...the conversion is much easier (but more expensive). While it might cost $200 to have a professional install a new in-line chlorinator (everything included), it generally costs around $1500 for a salt sytem to be installed (including equipment and A LOT of salt). For example, a 30,000 gallon pool requires about 800lbs of salt as part of the start up (20 of the 40lb bags). However, you don't have to drain the water in that process. If you live in the Dallas area and need help these items or something else related to swimming pools, please visit www.ABetterPoolService.com for helpful information and friendly answers to your questions. If you are outside the Dallas area, we'll still be glad to try to help over the phone at no cost to you and maybe even point you in the right direction of a service firm in your area if you need one. The important point here is that there isn't just one way to operate your pool in a safe and sanitary way and really it is all about user preference. There are pros and cons with both salt cells and typical chemical chlorine pools. The more information you gather, the better your chances are of making the decision as to which is best for you and your family. Have fun out there and enjoy your pools!
How long do you superchlorinate a pool?
Shock Treating/ Super Chlorinating "Burning up the pollutants with strong oxidizing chemicals" Shock treating or shocking refers to the addition of anything to the water that will remove or destroy ammonia and nitrogen compounds by oxidation - traditionally this has been chlorine. There are now some non-chlorine shock products. Organic matter and ammonia compounds enter a swimming pool or spa from many sources. Swimmers and bathers are major contributors with their bodies giving off saliva, sweat, urine and faecal matter. Windblown dust, fertilisers, algae, leaves, twigs, certain water-treatment chemicals and rain introduce contaminants into the water. Chlorine and bromine combine with ammonia and nitrogen compounds to form amines. Chloramines smell bad, they are eye and body irritants and they are also poor disinfectants. Bromamines do not have an odour problem and are as effective as free bromine for disinfection. Organic wastes build up and become sources of irritation. Dealing with the problem of combined chlorine requires testing the water to see how much of the chlorine in the water is free and how much is combined. The commonly used OTO test will not perform this task. It can only tell you the total chlorine level and can't differentiate between free and combined chlorine. However, a DPD test kit or a syringaldazine test strip will do the job. When chlorine is introduced into swimming pool or spa water it forms hypochlorous acid (HOCl (free chlorine)) which dissociates into H+ and OCl-, the degree of dissociation depends upon the pH. The OCl- is a strong oxidiser and will oxidise the ammonia to form a combined chlorine compound known as monochloramine (NH2Cl) and OH-. More chlorine as OCl- is required to continue the oxidation of the nitrogen or ammonia. If no more chlorine was in the pool or added to it, the pool or spa water would have a large amount of combined chlorine as monochloramine rather than the desired free chlorine. As more chlorine is added, the monochloramine is now oxidised by the additional chlorine as OCl- to form dichloramine (NHCl2 + another OH-). The dichloramine is again oxidised by OCl- to form trichloramine (NCl3 + another OH-). The trichloramine is unstable and breaks down to simple nitrogen and chlorine completing breakpoint chlorination. Superchlorination to truly achieve the destruction of all organic waste can be very tricky. If not enough chlorine is added, the combined chlorine problem is only made worse. When this happens, eye burn and skin irritation are raised to very high and very irritating levels. If too much chlorine is added, it may take days to drop to safe levels (less than 5 ppM) before bathing can be resumed. It takes 7.6 parts by weight of chlorine to oxidise 1 part of ammonia. Other organics or products in the water will also consume some of the added chlorine so that 7.6 parts is not enough. 10 parts of chlorine for each part of ammonia is generally the required amount. Dirty and contaminated pools could take up to 25 parts or more of chlorine. As a general rule of thumb, the addition of 10 times the combined chlorine level will achieve breakpoint. In other words, if the water has 0.5ppm of combined chlorine by test, you will need to add 5 ppM or more of chlorine. Each of the popular chlorine products provide a different amount of available chlorine when added to water. In a typical 100,000 litre pool it will take about 1 kg of available chlorine to achieve 10 parts per million.
How much copper sulfate would you use in a 30000 gallon pool?
It is best to steer customers away from algaecides that use copper, since copper tends to have bad effects in pool water, i.e. stains on the walls, and cloudiness after chlorine is added etc. Sodium Bromide based algaecides in conjunction with liquid chlorine is usually the cheapest and most efficient method for destroying algae. Just make sure that you don't have a mineral purification system (nature2, pool frog, etc) or the Sodium Bromide (or the copper for that matter) will instantly destroy it. Yes but not straight as it will mark the walls and break down quickly you do need to buffer it (doing this will make it last approx 10 times longer) and adjust its pH to 6.5 and still use small amounts of bromide or Chlorine from time to time. as there are some bacteria that it doesn't control First thing you need to do is make sure your alkalinity is at least 50 ppm for copper sulfate to work properly. My pool used to be totally dark green when I opened it. I now use 2 to 3 table spoons of copper sulfate when I open it in the spring and it goes from green to clean in about 2 days. It may be a little cloudy after this, but it's something you can work with, clarifiers etc. Also back flush often. I also use the same amount in the fall when I close it, but make sure you circulate the water for 2 days before you close it. Make sure you mix the copper sulfate with water in a plastic container, make sure the blue crystals are dissolved. I use a 2 gallon plastic container with a sprinkler head on it like you use to water flowers with, this makes it easy to sprinkle the copper sulfate mixed with water in the pool evenly. You can buy copper sulfate at your local hardware store or on ebay. P.S. I only use use copper sulfate in the spring and the fall. I do not use it during the season as a chlorine substitute as some people say they do, as to much copper in your water can cause you problems.
How do you convert an above-ground vinyl pool from fresh water to salt water?
Make sure your water is balanced and add salt (sodium chloride). You need to purchase a saltwater chlorine generator and you'll need to calculate the amount of salt you need. You would need to bring your pool salt content up to 3,000 ppm. Concentration is the amount (by weight) of salt in water and can be expressed in parts per million (ppm). Here are the classes of water: * Fresh water - less than 1,000 ppm * Slightly saline water - From 1,000 ppm to 3,000 ppm * Moderately saline water - From 3,000 ppm to 10,000 ppm * Highly saline water - From 10,000 ppm to 35,000 ppm Ocean water has a salinity that is approximately 35,000 ppm. http://www.windows.ucar.edu/tour/link=/earth/Water/dissolved_salts.html&edu=high There is now a system with a healthier salt available Magnesium and Potassium Chloride. it is more expensive but in my opinion it is also much better and halthier than Sodium chloride. The aticle I am using is from poolrite http://www.magnapool.com/about_magnapool.php
